Reader’s Rig: Joao’s Salsa Fargo

Words and photos by João Costa

Hi, I’m João. I’m originally from Portugal and have been living in Ireland for the past 10 years, working as a psychiatrist. I’ve always loved travel, and bikes have been part of my life since I was a kid. My first was a green Orbita BMX, a gift when I was six. I rode it everywhere with my friends, out early in the morning, only coming back when it got dark. Even back then, the bike meant freedom, exploration, and a way to see the world around me on my terms.

That sense of freedom stuck. After years of studying and working, I eventually found a way to combine my two greatest passions: cycling and travel. Discovering bikepacking changed everything. One of my first trips was across Ireland, riding a road bike with a 75L hiking backpack strapped to my back. It was the worst possible setup, but I still went, explored, and totally enjoyed it. Later, I rode from my hometown of Batalha down to the Algarve, and I was hooked. Not long after, my brother and I rode the full length of Portugal’s Atlantic coast, from Caminha on the northern border with Spain all the way to Sagres.

During COVID, I started looking for a proper bikepacking rig. I couldn’t find anything that ticked all the boxes, so I decided to build it myself, slowly, part by part, as I could afford it. It was a challenge, especially being based in Ireland. Many of the components came from the US, while others had to be sourced from Australia, Germany, and the Netherlands. It turned into a long logistical puzzle, but in the end, I built the bike I had dreamed of: a steel Salsa Fargo with a Rohloff hub, Gates CDX belt drive, SON dynamo hub, and a few carefully chosen components that prioritised simplicity, durability, and reliability. I wanted something that could handle long, remote trips with as little maintenance as possible. I had a lot of inspiration from setups I saw online, and Aleen Denham at CyclingAbout was kind enough to offer some helpful advice along the way.

My first proper ride with the new rig was a two-week trip in Oman. I started along the coast from Muscat and headed inland into the mountains. One night, I found myself without fuel for my stove, no electricity, and only a little water. But it turned out to be a beautiful night. I camped under a sky full of stars in complete silence, and in the morning, I woke to the surreal sight of wild camels wandering near my tent.

• Frame/Fork: Salsa Fargo
• Rims: WTB KOM i29 Tough
• Hubs: SON 28 dynamo (front) / Rohloff Speedhub 500/14 (rear)
• Tires: Maxxis IKON 29 x 2.6″
• Handlebars: Surly Moloko
• Grips: Ergon GC1
• Headset: Cane Creek 40
• Crankset: Middleburn RS7 with 104 BCD spider
• Pedals: Hope F20
• Rear cog: CDX 20T splined
• Brakes: AVID BB7 Mechanical, 180mm rotors
• Shifter(s): Rohloff
• Saddle: Brooks C17 Carved
• Seatpost: Redshift ShockStop
• Stem: Ritchey Comp
• Front bags: Copra handlebar bag,
• Frame bags: Rogue Panda
• Rear bags: Triglav seat pack
• Accessory bags: Buckhorn Bags stem bag, BikepackingEstonia top tube bag
• Rack bag: Revelate Designs Saltyroll
• Other accessories: Gates CDX Belt (113T), kLite lighting and USB charging system

The next morning, after packing up and rolling into the next town, I stopped at a petrol station. A man pulled up beside me, smiled, asked where I was from, and then quietly paid for my fuel. Before I could even thank him properly, he invited me to his home for lunch. A few hours later, I was sitting with him and his family, surrounded by cinnamon rice, grilled chicken, fresh pomegranate, and endless cups of Arabic coffee and dates. That evening, I camped near a hot spring, rinsed off under the stars, and listened to the breeze rustling through the palm trees. It was one of those days that just kept unfolding, full of warmth, generosity, and the kind of hospitality that stays with you.

Oman also gave me one of my hardest moments on the bike. One day, my front bag slipped and got caught between the wheel and the fork. The bike stopped dead, and I went flying. I smashed my face, broke three front teeth, tore open both lips, and landed hard. No signal. No one around for at least 10 kilometers. It was just me, the bike, and the desert. But thank god for my helmet. A few months later, I was back on the bike again, riding through Switzerland with chocolate gifted by my friend Yan, whom I had met years earlier in Japan and who helped me a lot on that trip.

Since then, I’ve done a two-week trip across South Korea with my brother and most recently cycled in Kyrgyzstan. When I’m home, I ride in Ireland whenever I can. Next up, I’m hoping to travel around Iceland, Guatemala, or Namibia. My head is full of dreams, and I’m just waiting for the right moment to turn them into reality while staying true to the things that matter most: my work and my family. As our little family grows, I hope my daughter Indie, who’s almost two, will come to love travel, simplicity, and the freedom of the bike. They say what you water will grow. I’m doing my best to water the good stuff.

See more from João on Instagram.

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