Bikepacking the Rioja Alta Loop

Photos by Ricard Calmet

With a few days off and an insatiable desire for adventure, we set our sights on an unexplored corner of the Iberian Peninsula. Ideas bounce around until we talk to Ernesto Pastor, the mastermind behind Montañas Vacías. He knows us well, understanding our craving for the wild and unknown. Amid our conversation, he mentioned Ibérica Norte and its creator, Carlos, someone he believed we’d click with. While we didn’t have enough time to tackle the entire Ibérica Norte route, we had time for the Rioja Alta Loop, a shorter version. Without hesitation, we mapped out the way to Munilla, the closest starting point to our home. From there, we embarked on a segment of the Montañas Vacías XL route to connect with the Rioja Alta Loop.

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In my mind, La Rioja, Spain’s smallest autonomous community, had always been synonymous with vineyards and excellent wines. I knew little about the region and its mountains, but this journey promised revelations, extending bikepacking possibilities into other regions such as Soria and Burgos. Setting off from Munilla in the afternoon, we pedaled vigorously until we reached Logroño, the capital of La Rioja. Unexpectedly, we found shelter in a pilgrim’s house (as the Camino de Santiago passes through here) and decided to celebrate our first day on the legendary Calle Laurel. This vibrant street, famed for its tapas bars, enticed us into a culinary adventure, hopping from bar to bar, savoring their specialities and filling our bellies.

The next morning, uncertainty loomed over our sleeping arrangements. Armed with a tent, we had the freedom to stop anywhere, though we aimed for the Refugio Zabarrula. Carlos had warned us of the arduous climbs ahead—around 50 kilometers of relentless ascents from Logroño. He wasn’t exaggerating; it was a true leg-breaker. The route quickly led us for a while into the Basque Country, in Álava, where we seized the chance to refuel at the first village we encountered. The path, although not technically challenging, wove through lush vineyards, their foliage in full splendor.

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As we approached Haro, nature unleashed its fury. Playing cat and mouse with the rain, we navigated through storms and lightning. In Grañón, we took refuge from a torrential downpour under the church porch, munching on pastries from the village bakery. When the rain eased, we resumed our journey. The mud was unforgiving, forcing us onto the road for a while. Eventually, the paths became more manageable. Spotting the refugio in the distance, we deviated slightly from our route. It was an idyllic haven, complete with grazing horses, a gushing fountain, and ample firewood.

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We hurried to fill our bottles from the fountain as the sky darkened once more. Thunder and lightning warned us to go into the refuge immediately. We lit a fire, dried off, and felt incredibly fortunate to be there. Rising early on the third day, we faced a forecast of relentless storms. The first sight of the day, Mount San Lorenzo, greeted us like a gift. We arrived in Ezcaray, where we indulged in croissants and cafés con leche. These croissants, thick and shiny like the ones from our childhood, brought a nostalgic taste to our lips.

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With our spirits high, we tackled a 1,300-meter climb. We were in La Sierra de la Demanda, a majestic mountain range. La Demanda is also the name that Carlos chose for his routes and his Instagram. The route alternated between asphalt, a beautiful beech forest, dirt tracks, and more asphalt, leading us to the Valdezcaray ski resort. From there, another breathtaking track carried us behind Mount San Lorenzo to an elevation of around 2,000 meters. Suddenly, hailstones pelted down, and the temperature plummeted. Despite the majestic scenery, the descent felt endless. At one point, we had to push our bikes along a narrow path. Hike-a-bike isn’t usually that enjoyable, but this time it was a blessing, helping us warm up.

We reached the monastery of Valvanera, finding shelter on its porch to improvise a picnic, as the bar and restaurant were closed. Unsure where we’d end up by nightfall, we seized a brief break in the weather to continue. We arrived dry in Brieva de Cameros, stocking up on supplies: potato tortilla, chocolate croissants, bread, and some ice cream.

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A 400-meter climb lay ahead to our planned refuge for the night. Though steep, the route was stunningly scenic. No one else ventured along the roads. At the refuge, four weary hikers had already claimed the small shelter. We decided to push on to the next one marked on our map. Ascending higher, we were drenched once more. Finally, we found Refugio Monte Real. Despite it being partially under construction, it was the perfect spot to rest, surrounded by grazing cows on vast green hills.

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Rain greeted us again the next morning. We enjoyed a hearty breakfast under a sliver of sunshine, savouring some coffee and the croissants we bought yesterday. Snow-capped mountains loomed in the distance, a stark contrast to the approaching summer. Entering into the region of Soria, we descended the col of Montenegro at 1,592 meters, replenishing supplies in Villoslada de Cameros before climbing again toward the col of Sancho Leza. The final ascent, with rain chasing us, brought us to the Refugio del Cabezo del Santo. We sought shelter from the downpour and decided to stay the night.

Without wood to warm us or dry our clothes, we opted to save the long descent for the next day. La Rioja had left an indelible mark on us. Despite the fog and rain, the region’s beauty shone through, leaving us with a profound sense of satisfaction and a longing to return. Thank you, Carlos, for this extraordinary route!

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The Route

We rode the full length of the Rioja Alta Loop by Carlos of La Demanda Cycling, and show below, and added a short segment to reach the route from where we were staying. Riders interested in a longer tour can check out the full route guide to the Ibérica Norte.

Further Reading

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