Riding Honduras, A Hidden Jewel

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Seeking an adventure and wanting to deepen his understanding of his own country, first-time bikepacker Tulio Tercero strapped a few bags to his bike and pedaled off for a multi-week trip across Honduras. Find his story of letting go of his reservations and experiencing his backyard from the saddle here…

Words and photos by Tulio Tercero (@thirdworldcycling)

For several years I have been an urban cyclist and bike activist in one of the most hectic and dangerous capital cities in Latin America. I’m from Tegucigalpa, Honduras, and in this place, cycling as a mode of transportation is almost non-existent. Honduras is one of the poorest countries in the world, and all of its limited road infrastructure is focused on cars. This is more noticeable in Tegucigalpa than anywhere else in the country. Some time ago, I got tired of this and moved to live a quieter life in the middle of the country in a beautiful and peaceful valley called Comayagua.

When I moved to this place, I started connecting even more with cycling. As the months passed, I started to get a clearer state of mind. And I started to wonder what it would be like to cross the country on a bikepacking by myself. This felt overwhelming at first because we Hondurans tend to be afraid of our own country since throughout the last 20 years we’ve had one of the highest crime rates in the world. At last, after months of thinking it over, I felt I owed this trip to myself because I always wanted to understand my own country by bike. So, I decided that even with my fears and reservations I should go ahead with the trip. I feel fortunate that I made this decision as it would lead to one of the best experiences of my life.

I planned to start my ride from the tiny and peaceful town I call home, Villa de San Antonio, where I’ve learned to live a simpler life. I started doing some research about bikepacking and how to approach it since it was a new type of cycling experience for me. In Honduras, even in the cycling community, the term bikepacking is anything but common. You won’t find a bikepacking bag or any type of gear in any store all across the country. Without any kind of purpose-built gear at my disposal, I figured I should use other types of bags strapped to my bike with a simple piece of rope. I did this and started my trip only the essentials.

I started riding from the center of the country to the south along a long and lonely road called Canal Seco, which would translate to “Dry Canal” in English. This road has been half tarmac and half dirt road for many years and it takes you from the center of the country all the way to the border with El Salvador. From the border, you can ride east to find the beautiful south pacific coast of Honduras.

This was my first stop, and this area is quite challenging to ride because it’s one of the driest and hottest zones in the country. I stopped in a middle-sized city called San Lorenzo, home to the biggest port in the south of Honduras. From there, I began to make my way further south, where I started to encounter Honduras’s beautiful and demanding mountains to get to a town called San Marcos de Colón, just a couple of miles from the Nicaraguan border. I stayed here for a few days, and around that time the country became engulfed in a political crisis due to government corruption so people started protesting mass scale and I had to temporarily pause my trip.

My plan was to ride all the way from the south to the north of the country, passing through the capital city Tegucigalpa in the center, but it was clear that my original idea was no longer feasible given the political unrest. At last, after trying to wait it out, I decided to hitchhike to the capital city, taking my bike with me instead of riding it because at that time you could encounter violent clashes of protesters against government security forces on the roads. Once I arrived in Tegucigalpa, I felt the journey had truly started.

I started riding to the west of the country, and although the riding became properly tough since that region of the country has its highest mountains, it’s there that I encountered some of the friendliest people I had ever met in my home country. Wherever I went, I received support from people on the side of the road. They shared stories of struggle but they were joyful people living simple rural lives. And not only are the people kind, but the views of the landscapes and nature in that region are more stunning than you can possibly imagine.

All of this beauty is there, right in the middle of a tiny country that people mostly know because of its high crime rate. At last, after climbing some of the hardest roads in all of the country, I arrived in the beautiful city of La Esperanza, which translates to “Hope” in English. Unlike the southern part of the country, La Esperanza’s climate is far colder. From here I kept pedaling further east to a town called Gracias—another beautifully named town with warm and welcoming people.

As I kept riding, the fear I had before the trip slowly faded away after being replaced by positive experiences and interactions along the way. Making my way toward the northwest of Honduras, I encountered some of the loneliest roads of the entire route around Copán, and the climate again became hotter and more humid, making for a demanding but beautiful stretch.

At last, I got to San Pedro Sula, the second most important city in the country and also one of the most dangerous. Here, just like in the rural part of the country I encountered nice people who helped me with anything I needed. My plan was to cycle from this northern city all the way to the Caribbean coast, but my plans were again halted by the political crisis. So, after a couple of weeks of traveling, I decided the most prudent thing to do would be to end my trip there. Despite it ending early, it was one of the most beautiful experiences of my life, and one I’ll surely never forget.

In seeing my country from the saddle, I learned that we shouldn’t get carried away with what the news tells us about a place since most of the time it only shares the bad side of the story. From my experience crossing Honduras from south to north, I encountered an abundance of kindness and beautiful scenery. Had I let my preconceived notions about my own backyard stop me, I’d have missed out on some of the best adventures I’ve ever had. I’d encourage everyone to go out, push themselves a little beyond their comfort zone, and experience a new place by bike, no matter how close or far away it might be.

Tulio Tercero

About Tulio Tercero

Tulio Tercero is a graphic designer, illustrator, and social entrepreneur from Tegucigalpa, Honduras. When he’s not riding his bike, he’s into movies, gaming, and 3D animation. He’s also the founder and former CEO of a climate change and sustainable mobility awareness organization. You can find him on Instagram @thirdworldcycling.

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