Singletrack/MTB
Gravel/All-road
Dirt-road Touring
Fat-bike
Cycling Northern Vietnam, Episode 3 (Video)
In her third video from Northern Vietnam, Belén Castelló shares a glimpse of her time solo bikepacking through the dramatic mountains of one of the region’s most-visited provinces. Along the way, she reflects on the contrasting experiences of visiting highly curated areas and those that have maintained more of their local character…
Words, photos, and film by Belén Castelló
As I approached the famous region of Hà Giang in Northern Vietnam, I began to feel a little nervous about what I would find. For one, I’d be facing multiple mountain passes each day, but what made me most uneasy was the thought of how busy the roads might get. Hà Giang is one of the most visited spots in the country, with people booking organized motorbike tours that follow a defined loop around the mountains. I knew the landscapes would be stunning, but I wasn’t sure how much of the experience would feel authentic, or whether I’d constantly be sharing narrow roads with convoys of other travelers, especially since paved roads aren’t my favorite for riding but are mostly unavoidable in this part of the country.
Northern Vietnam holds a history marked by decades of conflict and is home to many different ethnic minority groups, both of which feel present from the road. But as I got deeper and deeper into the mountains, I felt something was off, as if the place had been split in two: one curated for tourists, and one that remained hidden in the background for the locals. I noticed a shift in how people interacted with me. There were fewer smiles, less eye contact, and a more transactional or distant feeling—almost a sense of discontent. I found myself wondering why.
Episode 3 reflects on that contrast—the subtle divide between locations that are heavily visited and those that still preserve their genuine essence. While busier areas can feel less authentic, they often provide practical benefits to any bikepacker, such as better infrastructure, easier access to food, internet, comfortable accommodations, and the opportunity to connect with other travelers: something I hadn’t realized I’d appreciate so much… until I did!
I invite you to follow along as I pedal through the mountains of Hà Giang and into the region of Sa Pa, learning about the place’s history through its landmarks, the landscape, and brief yet meaningful exchanges with the people who live there. Between the climbs and winding roads, this chapter became just as much about moving forward as it was about learning to share the road and understanding what lies behind a place.
Further Reading
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