Singletrack/MTB
Gravel/All-road
Dirt-road Touring
Fat-bike
Cycling Northern Vietnam, Episode 4 (Video)
The fourth and final episode of Belén Castelló’s “Cycling Northern Vietnam” series finds her pedaling her last few hundred kilometers and reflecting on the many lessons and beautiful moments from her first big solo bikepacking trip. Watch it here…
Words, photos, and film by Belén Castelló
“First times are rarely perfect, but they are usually unforgettable. They stir up a certain excitement and nervousness, driven by the anticipation of stepping into something unknown—the same kind of thrill we felt as kids, when the world was full of things we hadn’t tried yet. That sense of wonder—of entering the unknown without needing to get it right—is what makes first times so powerful, and why they tend to leave such a mark. This solo bikepacking trip through Northern Vietnam was one of those firsts, which is why I know the memories will stay with me forever.”
As the days on the road began to add up, so did the awareness that this journey was slowly drawing to a close. The biggest mountain passes were already behind me, and the landscape had begun to change—trading long, steep climbs for lush, quieter valleys and rolling hills. After a month of riding, there were only 500 kilometers left between me and Hanoi, my final destination. A bittersweet feeling took over as I realized I’d be living many “lasts,” but that same quiet pressure was what pushed me to savor every one of those final experiences and kilometers.
I had planned my route around Northern Vietnam in an anti-clockwise direction, knowing the path would become more touristy in the south. Soon, the hard mattresses and breakfast noodles would be replaced by soft beds, air-conditioned rooms, swimming pools, and an endless choice of food. In my head, I kept replaying scenes from the past month on the bike—comparing moments, places, and feelings—trying to take in everything that had happened. I also kept thinking about the striking contrast between the Vietnam one sees as a tourist, when sticking exclusively to these highly catered hotspots, and the Vietnam experienced from the saddle—where the real magic lies in the in-betweens. That’s where the genuine stories unfold, where the heart of a place slowly reveals itself. And it doesn’t take much to find it.
Traveling by bike isn’t easy. You’re exposed to the elements, your body is your engine, and discomfort is part of the deal. But I’ve traveled in many different ways—sometimes even to the same place—by public transport, by car, and by bike—and still, cycling remains the most rewarding and genuine. It’s the only mode of travel that, for me, captures the truest impression of a place and opens the strongest connections with locals. There’s just something about it that fits—how I like to move, observe, and be in a place.
Episode 4 in this series follows the final stretch of my bike journey in Northern Vietnam, from Sa Pa to Ninh Binh. It was a soft transition into a more familiar, touristed Vietnam, where comfort and convenience began to take over, and my ride started to feel more like a holiday.
It’s never easy to capture what a place truly looks and feels like through a lens, but I’ve tried to share it as closely as I experienced it, attempting to capture its essence. Vietnam caught me off guard in the best possible way. I arrived with no expectations and left with a deeper understanding of its history and culture, a heart warmed by countless kindnesses, and a renewed confidence in my ability to navigate both the road and my own company. And, just like those early overnighters back home, I have a feeling this was only the first of many solo adventures to come.
Further Reading
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