Embracing the Darkness at El Piri 2024

Words and photos by Paula Soler, additional photos by Lloyd Wright

For some people, cycling at night might seem dangerous, boring, and even pointless. For me, it opens a world of possibilities where the imagination expands, creating scenarios that border on the magical. If you ask me what the highlights of my experience at El Piri were, I would undoubtedly talk about the nights. It may seem strange or even contradictory. Who would want to ride through the mountains without seeing them? Why miss out on that feeling of the immensity of a peak at 2,000 meters?

• 
• 
• 

A couple of weeks ago, El Piri departed from Girona, Spain. It’s a self-supported bikepacking/ultra-endurance event, covering around 800 kilometers through the Catalan Pyrenees with approximately 20,000 meters of climbing. I love the idea that it’s an event and not a race because it highlights the story of each person who decides to embark on this adventure. My strategy, not unlike the one I always use when I do ultra-distance events, was to stop for the shortest amount of time, sleep only as much as necessary, and try to advance during the day and night. But, as usual, plants don’t always go as expected.

After the first 30 hours of pedaling without stopping, and with less than 300 kilometers under my belt, I felt the need to take a break. What was initially going to be a one-hour power nap had turned into more than 10 hours of sleep in the middle of the forest. I leaned my bike next to a tree and lay on the ground. When it started to get dark, I took out the survival blanket and insulated myself from the cold of the night. Despite the alarms going off every hour, seeing and hearing other participants passing by, and wanting to keep going, my body could no longer fight the tiredness. Sleep took over.

• 
• 

• 
• 
• 

At around 7 a.m. the next day, still tired and with very little strength, I knew pedaling was the only way out of there. If I managed to go 40 kilometers, I could reach Pobla de Segur, a small town where I could find food and a shower. After an endless conversation with my competitive spirit, driven by the beauty of the Pyrenees I was sure I would find along the way, I realized that I still had four days to finish, and I understood that nothing had been lost yet. A bath and a restful sleep in a bed were all I needed to awaken the hunger for the ultra that lives in me.

In the shower, while the water washed away the salt and dirt from the two days of crossing the harsh but stunning mountains, I felt capable of enjoying the journey again and pedaling as many hours as necessary. I looked in the mirror and could see in my reflection the strength and desire to get back to Girona. A smile decorated my face, and all that was left was to enjoy and be thankful; my spirit felt more alive than ever. I enjoyed four more hours of rest and took advantage of the opportunity to charge my external batteries, Wahoo, phone, etc.

• 
• 

• 
• 
• 

At 7 p.m., I was ready to start again, and although I still felt a little afraid of not feeling strong, I allowed myself to flow at the pace my body dictated. The sun was beginning to say goodbye, and the sunset filled the sky with colors to welcome a new night. The darkness didn’t allow my sight to delight in the landscape, but my body suffered and enjoyed it. I like cycling more and more at night, perhaps because my other senses are heightened, and the mountains tend to appear even more mystical.

I could hear some animals, the running water, and the sound of my wheels going through the earth and stones. On a 15-kilometer mountain pass, a battle between voices telling me to savor the present moment and reminding me that the finish line was still almost impossibly far away took place in my head. It was one of my most emotional nights on the bike, but I kept reminding myself of everything I had experienced out there and how much I had grown and learned. I eventually accepted that even if my plans didn’t turn out as expected, they would turn out the way they should.

The road was long, but as the hours passed, I felt stronger and more confident. With the dawn returning, my legs asked me to keep going. My best friend during those days was an inflatable pillow, which allowed me to take naps for less than half an hour in any grass or vacant lot next to the road. That was all the comfort I needed to rest. Once I managed to reach CP1, with 460 kilometers already behind me, I took the opportunity to enjoy a proper breakfast of eggs, cereal, bread, two coffees, orange juice, and some fruit. With enough water and food, the only thing left was to enjoy each high mountain pass, the technical descents, the wind in my face, the sun, the moon, and the stars, or rather, existence itself.

• 
• 
• 

• 
• 

Night was coming again. Hopefully it would be the last one. While the sun was setting, I enjoyed a long asphalt descent to the rhythm of one of my favorite songs. A couple of tears welled up, and a feeling of nostalgia and joy embraced me. As the night progressed, the road became narrower and narrower and more and more fun. Between bridges, rivers, and singletrack, the hours went by, and just before dawn, I decided to rest. As always, I did so by the side of the road with my lemonade and my survival blanket to make the last day in the best mood.

Once all that darkness had turned into light, and I realized how necessary it had been. “Only in the darkness can you see the stars.” Amid the moments when it was difficult for me to see the exit, I could feel the inner fire that has always accompanied and guided me. In those last kilometers, my breathing set the rhythm, and the “now” was the only thing that mattered. Just a couple of hours before finishing, I sat on the mountain and enjoyed some of its cold waters. I said goodbye to the Pyrenees and thanked them for being my new home.

• 
• 
• 

Girona welcomed me back with applause from the El Piri team, other participants, and friends. I couldn’t believe it. The hugs were immediate, and the happiness was immense. I was very proud of myself. All the effort had been worth it, not only for finishing but because I had been able to reconcile with myself and recognize that I’m a fragile and sensitive but brave and capable human being. It’s incredible, but I felt like I was a different person than the one at the starting line. I am immensely grateful to Piri, James, and the entire team behind this event because this experience undoubtedly made me more aware of the fragility of existence, starting with my own. It was as if crossing those physical and mental boundaries awakened in me the ability to marvel at the simple things in life and to embrace the world’s internal and external darkness.

• 
• 

El Piri 2024 Route

The route for El Piri (L’esperit dels Pirineus) covers nearly 800 kilometres and feature 20,000 meters climbing through some of the most beautiful areas in the Catalan Pyrenees. Starting and finishing in Girona, the route heads out northwest through the Cadi Moixero, into Serra Bourmort, and up to the Vall d’Aneu deep in the Catalan Pyrenees. Crossing through the Parc Natural Alt Pirineu into Andorra and then traversing the Cerdanya valley, riders are treated to sublime high mountain gravel and stunning vistas. The route regularly passes through small Catalan villages and smaller towns at roughly 50km intervals.

You can learn more about the El Piri event at L’esperit del Bikepacking.

Further Reading

Make sure to dig into these related articles for more info...