Finding Nessie: Family Bikepacking in Scotland (Video)

Video edited and co-directed by Ryan Le Garrec

We ride through the Highlands as if there are no boundaries. We have everything we need. A tent that can keep us dry and warm in the harshest of conditions, a mattress, a warm sleeping bag, and food. No matter the terrain, we know how to handle it. If we can’t ride, we walk. If we can’t walk, we’ll drag and push our bikes through wetlands, on alpine trails running up and over mountain passes, and through roaring rivers. It’s the feeling that nothing can stop us. There are no boundaries. 

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We are Manu, Katrien, Aske, and Wietse. This summer, we went on a three-week bikepacking trip in the Scottish Highlands, linking parts of the Highland Trail 500, GBDURO, and the West Highland Way. Our sons Aske and Wietse are 7 and 6 years old, and for those who know the terrain, those routes might sound challenging. And although we have been bikepacking with our kids from a young age, we have to rethink our setup trip after trip. They grow older and bigger and want to ride themselves, but they don’t have the physical abilities yet to ride all day. So, we want to offer them the possibility to ride their own bikes whenever they feel like it, or take a rest when they need it. 

In our research, we quickly stumbled upon Omnium cargo bikes. They are durable, designed to carry heavy loads, and have good tyre clearance. These bikes would allow us to haul our kids, their bikes, and camping gear for four people. They handle well, are pretty responsive, and are very stable on more technical terrain and downhills. They looked like bikes that would not limit us to champagne gravel or paved roads—bikes that would give us the freedom and flexibility we are looking for when bikepacking. 

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And so we took off, looking for everything Scotland is known for: punchy climbs, beautiful valleys, pristine lakes, boggy fields, and misty mountains. Inevitably, we also encountered millions of midges and had our fair share of rain. We found shelter in bothies and wild camped near lakes and streams. But what we were specifically looking for was a place with endless off-road riding with remote stretches between villages. A place where nature dictates what the day will look like, and we just have to take it as it comes. 

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What’s it like to travel through wild places with kids? The simple answer is that it’s great. It feels like they’re in their natural habitat. Outdoors, in nature, is where they belong. Of course, it’s not as simple as it looks. Some kids will probably need some time to adjust, to detox from their “normal” lives at home. And you might find that during the first days, they will be asking for things they have at home: screens, certain forms of comfort, or family and friends. They might even tell you that a bikepacking trip is boring.

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But soon, the creativity we are all born with will start filling those boring moments. They’ll discover that there’s so much to do and see. They will slow down and open their eyes to small details they would normally miss. They will find play wherever you decide to stop for a break. That’s the true beauty of taking your kids to wild and remote places. 

But are they strong enough? If you’ve never pushed your kids before, it’s hard to answer that question. It’s healthy to challenge kids to leave their comfort zone and explore their limits. They learn so much about their bodies, what they’re capable of, and when enough truly is enough. In general, kids are pretty good at indicating their own limits. And if we create a safe environment for them to try new things, take part in decision-making, and see what the consequences of those decisions are, they gain so much confidence. That’s something they will benefit from for the rest of their lives. 

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A simple example: We are in the mountains and it starts raining. We put on our rain gear, but Aske feels warm and decides not to. We don’t argue; we explain that he will get cold in a couple of minutes, but he is stubborn, and we leave the decision up to him. We continue our ride, and minutes later, he stops. He wants to put on his rain gear because he’s cold. There’s a great deal of value in experiencing the direct consequences of the decision he made. While we feel warm and comfy, he is shivering, and it takes a while for him to warm up again. Next time it starts raining, he will remember how cold he got, decide to stop, and put his jacket on before he’s completely soaked through. He is capable now of making his own safe decisions. 

To be able to offer this kind of freedom to our kids, we, as parents, carry big responsibilities. Thorough preparation is needed from our side. We must know the route. Where can we buy food? Where can we find water? We have to know how fast or slow we will be to make sure we have enough supplies with us. We need to make our own decisions on the conservative side, being prepared for whatever nature throws at us. Because no matter how well you prepare, being on an adventure, with kids, on unknown grounds, is always a bit unpredictable. 

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For the trip to Scotland, our focus was on having the right bikes for the terrain we were planning to ride, to limit the risk of mechanicals. We packed a storm-proof tent that could serve as a reliable shelter when needed. Head nets to protect us from the midges and good rain gear were essential parts of our kit. We even attached a waterproof poncho to the cargo bikes to keep our kids dry in all conditions. With this poncho, enough dry clothes, and a down jacket, they were never cold. If you want to make a trip with kids successful and fun, keeping them warm and dry is vital! 

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And what if something goes wrong? Halfway through our trip, we decided to leave our planned route. We were on a 70-kilometre stretch on a touristy, rather busy road. Late afternoon, we saw a sign pointing towards a beautiful gravel road. The road led to the same village that the paved route would take us to. The distance was 25 kilometres instead of 70. After a quick check on Komoot, we decided to go for the gravel alternative because the paved option didn’t feel very safe. All went well, and after 10 kilometres, we even found a bothy to spend the night. Perfect.

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The next morning, we started riding, looking forward to an early lunch in town, just 15 kilometres away. The beautiful gravel road turned into a singletrack trail that disappeared after a couple of kilometres. We ended up pushing our bikes for six hours through wetlands and up and over a rocky mountain pass. Aske and Wietse helped us push our bikes over big rocks. They played in the streams and climbed on the rocks while hiking up the mountain. They only complained when they were hungry, but who wouldn’t!? We were rewarded with an awesome downhill singletrack. Looking back, it’s one of the best memories we have from our time in Scotland. 

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We have many similar stories to tell from our other family trips. They all leave us with the same feeling of accomplishment and satisfaction. The bond that’s created when experiencing these unexpected setbacks—and overcoming them—is priceless. When there are difficult moments in our daily lives, we can look back at everything we’ve overcome during our adventures and see it all in perspective. We know that everything passes, that we can make it through, and that it could be much worse. Aske and Wietse are more flexible, easy-going, independent, and perseverant than other kids their age. For us, taking our kids into the outdoors feels like the most valuable gift we can ever give them. And their willingness to accompany us on these wild bike rides is the greatest gift they can give us in return.

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