Mata Atlantica Bike Route (N1): Chapada

When to go

• May to September is the best time to go. This is the winter and dry season, meaning mild temperatures and less precipitation, but the waterfalls are less impressive. As the season advances in the Caatinga, the leaves of the trees fall, giving the landscapes a strikingly barren appearance. It is possible to ride outside of this window. The Caatinga will be greener, but expect high temperatures at low altitude and more rain, especially in the mountains.

Logistics

• Traveling by bus with a bike in Brazil is generally easy. Most companies will accept bikes, boxed or not, as long as there is room in the luggage compartment. Still, traveling with only one bike and having it in a box both increase your chances of it being accepted. Some companies charge a fee, while others do not. However, a few companies do not accept bikes, and it can be hard to find the information online, but this website has a partial list of bus companies and their bike policy.. To get to a bus station in large cities like Rio and São Paulo, it is probably safer and simpler to organize private transport to the station via taxi, shuttle or ridesharing app. For example, Uber Bag cars will usually fit a boxed bike. Larger taxis are also often available at airports and big bus stations.
• The starting point, Seabra, is a town on an important highway across the state of Bahia. It is reachable by bus from Salvador and Brasília. The bus company Novo Horizonte accepts bikes for a somewhat high fee. The bus company Rápido Federal, which also serves Palmeiras and Lençóis, stopped accepting bikes recently. Lençóis has an airport with infrequent flights to Salvador. Cities further south along the route are often served by the buses of Cidade Sol, which accept bikes for a fee.
• Alternative starting points include Ilhéus and Porto Seguro. Both cities have airports and are well-connected by bus. Starting in one of them allows one to focus on the coast by skipping the inland portion between Manoel Vitorino and Una, which has fewer attractions than the rest of the route.
• The ending point, Manoel Vitorino, is a town on an important highway, with buses going to larger cities in both directions, such as Salvador and Vitória da Conquista.
• The route can be ridden in either direction. It was mapped from north to south because the adjacent segment, N2, is easier to ride this way.
• Protected areas crossed in this segment are free to transit through.
• Mapsusing OpenStreetMap data are generally the most detailed and accurate. But there are occasional mistakes (such as overgrown trails mislabeled as roads) and omissions (for example, private gated roads not labeled as such). In a few regions, Google Maps is more detailed.

Dangers & Annoyances

• Mosquitoes and ticks can transmit diseases. In the winter, bug pressure is minimal. Biting insects tend to be small and it is easy not to notice them even as they bite you. Bring a long-sleeve shirt and full pants. Yellow fever vaccination is recommended as tourists have died from the disease in the past.
• Snakes can be easy to miss in overgrown trails. Be careful where you step. Some species are venomous. Know what to do in case of snake bite.
• Free-ranging dogs are common in rural areas. They bark a lot and sometimes give chase when they see a cyclist. Do not try to outspeed them if it is risky. It is sometimes safer to dismount and put the bike between you and them. Be assertive and pretend to throw something at them, and they will usually let you go. Larger guard dogs are more common in the South than elsewhere, but they are usually leashed or behind a fence.
• Cattle can sometimes block the path. Give them space and do not startle them.
• Livestock gatesare common. Be careful when opening them as they are often secured with a loop of barbed wire. If found closed, make sure to close them back behind you.
• Cars are rare on most of the route. Brazilian drivers often expect to see all kinds of things on rural roads (pedestrians, cyclists, horses, etc.), but as anywhere else, some are careless. Make sure to be visible and cautious.
• Crime is an issue in most large Brazilian cities, but rural areas are usually safer. This segment passes through quite a few small towns, which should be relatively safe. Note that the city of Jequié north of Manoel Vitorino (but not crossed by the route) is known for its high homicide rate.

What bike?

• A rigid mountain bike or hardtail with 2.2 to 2.6″ tires is the best bike to ride this segment because of all the singletrack and rough doubletrack. Even if you skip all the singletrack, the wide tires will be appreciated when the roads get rough or sandy.

Travel basics

Language

• Portuguese, in its Brazilian variety (and multiple accents), is almost the only language you will encounter. Learning the basics will prove very useful.
• For Spanish speakers, it is quite easy to learn a lot of Portuguese quickly, considering the similarities. The same goes for other Romance language speakers to a lesser extent. Be careful about trying to speak Spanish to Brazilians. While they can often understand some simple spoken Spanish, it can be laborious and inefficient. There are a few common words that are radically different, and there are some key pronunciation differences. Putting in the work to learn them is highly valuable.
• English speakers are virtually nonexistent except in tourist hubs and large cities.

Money

• The Brazilian real (plural reais, sign $R, code BRL) is the official currency.
• ATMs to withdraw money are found in cities, but they often charge exorbitant fees.
• Credit cards are very commonly accepted by businesses, including some small rural ones. It is a convenient way to pay for things without carrying large amounts of cash.
• Pix, an instant payment platform, was created by the Central Bank of Brazil a few years ago. It became extremely popular, and now a few businesses refuse credit cards (and their high fees). Seamlessly using Pix requires a Brazilian bank account, but workarounds might be possible with apps.
• Money transfer apps can be used for payments that can wait, for example lodging. Owners will often accept to give you the necessary banking information for the transfer. One such app used by some businesses is Wise, but the apps usually work even if the receiver is not registered.

Cell phone

• Mobile phone service is dominated by three providers (Claro, Vivo and Tim).
• Network coverage varies according to the region. Most towns are now covered (sometimes by only one provider), but the signal generally disappears almost as soon as you exit them.
• SIM cards (physical and digital) from one of the three providers can usually only be obtained by people with a CPF, which is a taxpayer identifying number.
• A CPF can be obtained by foreigners through Brazilian embassies and consulates or once in Brazil. This might be worth it for people planning to spend extensive time there. 
• International eSIM apps are the simplest but more expensive way to get network access.
• WhatsApp text messaging is usually the way to reach small businesses.
• Instagram is sometimes the only place to find important information about businesses such as campgrounds, as they often lack websites.

• Campgrounds are common around the Chapada Diamantina National Park, but absent further south in the Caatinga. They usually have all the services you could want (water, bathrooms with hot showers, electricity, wifi, and often cooking areas). Some of them expect advanced reservation through WhatsApp, which can be difficult to organize with the lack of cell phone signal and the unpredictability of bike travel. They usually cost around R$50 per night per person.
• Wild camping is not uncommon in the Chapada Diamantina. It seems to be prohibited within the national park, but it is not enforced, and people can be seen wild.camping there. Further south in the Caatinga, private land is often clearly delineated by fences, and stealth camping might be challenging. If looking for a place to sleep, you can ask around for recommendations. Owners of small rural businesses (such as bars and restaurants) are often resourceful and used to dealing with strangers. They might let you camp on their land or sleep in a room, for free or for a fee. Otherwise, they might direct you to a good spot. Camping next to rural churches might be an option too, but it is polite to ask locals for permission if possible.
• Pousadas are small lodging establishments, generally family-run. They are present in almost every town, most importantly in the last section through the Caatinga, where camping options are limited. Room prices vary between R$50 and 200 per night, with some in the lower range found in most towns. They usually let you bring your bike into your room. They often include all-you-can-eat breakfast. With some planning, it would be possible to do the whole segment without camping.

• Water sources are common but will need to be treated.
• Bottled water can be bought from stores daily.
• 2.5 L of carrying capacity is recommended as a minimum, especially in the semi-arid Caatinga.
• Supermarkets are found in every town. It is rarely needed to carry more than a day of food.
• Restaurants are common in towns but also near some tourist attractions. Pratos feitos (set meals) are good value.
• Bakeries are lively places offering traditional fare and opening early, which is convenient when sleeping in town.
• Good Snacks for people with a sweet tooth include fresh fruits and cold açaí na tigela. More packable options include bananada and paçoca (candies made from banana and peanut respectively).
• Pinhão is the vernacular name given to the large edible seeds of the Araucaria angustifolia trees. The cooked seeds, eaten alone or as part of a recipe, are popular throughout the region.
• Meat is important in Brazilian cuisine, which might be challenging for vegetarians. This is particularly true in the South of the country, famous for its churrasco. One typical plate, for example, is entrevero, a mix of grilled meats and vegetables, including pinhão. Rice and beans is also common, as it is elsewhere in the country. However, it is sometimes cooked with meat. It tastes even better when sprinkled with farofa, a toasted cassava flour, which unfortunately also often contains meat.
• The typical food of the interior of Northeast Brazil includes: carne de sol (partially dried beef), cuzcuz (cornmeal) and tapioca or beiju (a manioc crepe with different fillings). The Chapada Diamantina has a few specific dishes, such as godó de banana, a stew made from banana and meat. The cuisine of the region is also notable for its use of jaca (jackfruit). In the Caatinga, palma cactus is produced mostly for livestock feed, but also human consumption. Some delicious fruits originate from the region, such as umbu and mangaba. Other fruits are produced in large quantities for export, such as mango, papaya and passionfruit (including a local variety known as maracujá da Caatinga).

This is a proposed 9-day itinerary, with shorter days of riding in the Chapada to enjoy its attractions (and singletrack) and longer days in the Caatinga, where there are fewer attractions.

locationSeabra – Guiné

Day 1 (60.7 km +1,067m)

The route follows doubletrack east of Seabra, which can be a bit challenging because of rocks, ruts and sand. It gets better after 10 km or so. A dirt road leads to Palmeiras, where there are a few lodging options. Then the route goes south, offering great views of the mountains of the Chapada to the east. The road can be a bit rough, sandy and steep. The route reaches the town of Guiné, which has lodging and a campground. To avoid the upcoming singletrack, it is possible to take the main paved road from Seabra directly to Lençóis instead.

locationGuiné – Vale do Capão

Day 2 (31 km +671m)

From Guiné, the route climbs up the mountains to the east. It turns into a trail, which is very difficult. It is a steep climb that requires you to lift your bike over rocks. The reward is to reach a high plateau with nice views of the surrounding mountains. The trail on the plateau is considerably easier. It leads to the Mirante do Pati, which also offers great views. It would be possible to go down into the Vale do Pati to reach camping and lodging options, but this would add quite a bit of singletrack to an already difficult section. The route turns north and eventually descends from the plateau, which is once again difficult because of the rocks and steepness of the trail. The trail offers stunning views of the Vale do Capão before reaching it. There are campgrounds, hostels and pousadas there.

locationVale do Capão – Lençóis

Day 3 (32.5 km +474m)

North of the Vale do Capão, the route uses singletrack again. The first stretch is quite easy, and it offers great views of some of the most famous landmarks of the Chapada. There are a few easy crossings of small rivers. To the north, the route gets close to the Pai Inácio. A detour there is possible to enjoy the most well-known viewpoint of the Chapada. There is also lodging and a campground nearby. Then the route turns southeast, and the trail gets more difficult, because of its steepness and rocky surface. It eventually reaches the well-preserved historic town of Lençóis, which has numerous campgrounds, hostels and pousadas.

locationLençóis – Igatu

Day 4 (42.7 km +808m)

South of Lençóis, the route uses doubletrack, which can be rough or muddy at times. It passes through lush forest. It also includes a few river crossings, which are generally shallow. There are waterfalls and options for swimming. The route reaches Andaraí, where there are campgrounds, hostels and pousadas. It then takes a trail up to the cute historic town of Igatu, where there are campgrounds, hostels and pousadas. The trail can be quite steep in places. It is sometimes made of stone that can be slippery. For an easier alternative, take the cobblestone road to the east.

locationIgatu – Mucugê

Day 5 (18 km +543m)

This is a short day to enjoy some attractions along the way. Near Igatu, there are ruins, an open air-museum, a manmade cave and a viewpoint. The route then uses a trail going up to the south. It can once again be quite steep. For an easier alternative, take the dirt road southeast of Igatu. The route then takes the paved BA-142/BA-245 for a few kilometers. It passes next to the Projeto Sempre-Viva, which has a museum, trails and cachoeiras. It then takes a trail to the Museu Vivo do Garimpo, a museum about the mining history of the region. The singletrack here is a good way to appreciate the local flora. Finally, the route reaches Mucugê, another historic town, with a “Byzantine” cemetery and a nearby viewpoint.

locationMucugê – Ibicoara

Day 6 (67.7 km +947m)

West of Mucugê, the route uses some easy singletrack. It then turns south to take dirt roads that offer great views of the mountains to the east. It enters a coffee-growing region and reaches the town of Ibicoara, which has campgrounds, hostels and pousadas.

locationIbicoara – Contendas do Sincorá

Day 7 (74.5 km +847m)

The route goes east to traverse the southern section of the Chapada Diamantina. A few waterfalls can be visited. There is lodging and campgrounds nearby. The Vale da Raposa offers some nice views. It also has a bikepacker-owned lodge, which offers lodging and bike tours. There are multiple options for singletrack alternatives or side trips here. The route keeps going south to leave the Chapada and enter the Caatinga. It passes through Triunfo do Sincorá, where there is one lodging option. Then there is a crossing of the Sincorá River, which is generally shallow. Finally, the route reaches Contendas do Sincorá, where there are a few lodging options.

locationContendas do Sincorá – Catingal

Day 8 (98.9 km +1,182m)

This is the longest day, but it can be divided by sleeping in Areião, which has one pousada. The riding is almost exclusively on dirt roads, through slightly hilly landscapes. The roads can get a bit sandy in some sections. In Catingal, there is also one pousada to spend the night.

locationCatingal – Manoel Vitorino

Day 9 (47.2km +656m)

East of Catingal, the route goes up a bit and then down to Manoel Vitorino, where there are pousadas. If you are also riding N2 afterward, it is recommended to keep biking to Boa Nova, which is a more pleasant place to spend the night.

Additional Resources

• The Chapada National Park website has information for visitors.
• Wikivoyage has a partial list of bus companies and their bike policy.