The Malchin Trail

When to go

• This route can be ridden from May to September. The best time is during the summer months of June through August.
• I rode it in late August, and at around 1,500 meters, the water would freeze at night.

Logistics

• The most economical option is to take a regular intercity bus departing from Bayanzürkh Bus Terminal, located in the eastern part of Ulaanbaatar. Most travelers opt for private transport services or shared cars.
• Familiarize yourself with the etiquette for visiting a ger (a nomad’s tent). Guests should enter and sit on the left side. The stove is considered sacred; do not throw trash into it or rest your feet on it. Locals typically offer visitors milk tea and bread.

What bike and gear

• While it is possible to ride using 38mm gravel tires, slick-tread tires might prove challenging for potentially sandy or muddy terrain, though such conditions are quite rare. Tires with a more aggressive tread pattern are recommended. If you are using a hardtail mountain bike equipped with tires two inches or wider, you will have a very comfortable ride.
• Mongolia experiences extreme temperature fluctuations between day and night, so you need to pack appropriate clothing. During our ride in late August, the temperature difference reached 30°C. Water froze at dawn, yet it felt hot in the middle of the day.

Dangers & Annoyances

• There are hardly any road signs or distinctive landmarks, so you must learn how to navigate using GPS before setting out.
• Mobile service is available only in limited areas, such as near villages. Keep in mind that internet access is virtually non-existent.
• Animals such as bears, wolves, and foxes inhabit the taiga forest, though actual encounters with them are rare. The real threat comes from dogs. Nomads keep dogs to protect their livestock, and the traditional Mongolian breed—the “Bankhar”—is fierce enough to fight off wolves. However, most dogs we encountered along the route approached in a friendly manner and rarely showed strong territorial aggression.

• You can camp almost anywhere, provided there is a water source.
• Drinking water can be found in locations other than those marked on the map. You can obtain water from gers, but it is best to purify it before drinking. Gers are moved seasonally; a ger present at one time might not be there during a future visit.
• Homestays offering food and accommodation are available at the 46- and 133-kilometer marks from the starting point. Grocery stores are available at the 206-kilometer (Omnodelger town) and 290-kilometer (Bayanmod town) marks. Overall, conditions for resupply are very favorable.

• This route passes through two villages with grocery stores. Since there are no stores during the first three days, you must carry at least three days’ worth of food. You will pass a couple of homestays before then, where you might be able to obtain limited supplies.
• Although there is plenty of water, to the point where you might cross a stream three or four times a day, the amount of water actually safe for drinking is limited. This is because many livestock animals are left to graze freely; consequently, the larger the stream, the more likely it is to be contaminated by animal waste. While groundwater and well water are generally safe to drink, it is strongly recommended that you purify any flowing water before consuming it.
• A representative traditional Mongolian dish is khorkhog. It is prepared by placing lamb and various vegetables into a large pot or milk can and cooking them with hot, heated stones. Khuushuur, a meat-filled dumpling, is also commonly eaten.
• Locals often use water from flowing streams for drinking. Therefore, exercise caution when using water from such sources. If you need to shower or do laundry, do not enter the stream; instead, fetch the water and perform these activities at a location at least five meters away. Even then, do not use soap.

Suggested Itinerary

The following is the itinerary for the Malchin Trail event, a supported bikepacking ride held annually in August along this route. This itinerary also works well for touring riders who want to split up the route.

locationBaganuur to Blue Lake

Day 1 (70km, +685m)

The ride begins on the banks of the Kherlen River. Upstream of the Kherlen River lies Burhan Khaldun, believed to be the birthplace and tomb of Genghis Khan. UNESCO designated Burhan Khaldun a World Heritage Site in 2015.

Stage 1 ends at Khar Zurkhni Kokh Nuur, which means “blue lake of the black heart” in Mongolian. Khar Zurkh Kokh Nuur (Mongolian: Хар зүрхний хөх нуур) is a small but historically significant freshwater lake nestled among forested mountains in Khentii Province, eastern Mongolia. The lake is widely believed to be the site where Temujin was proclaimed Genghis Khan in 1189 by the tribal khuriltai (council), making it one of the most legendary locations in Mongolian history.

locationBlue Lake to Baldan Bereeven Monastery

Day 2 (66km, +628m)

Forty-four kilometers into Stage 2, you’ll see a sign on a hill that reads “Khangal Nuur.” Nuur means lake. The lake view from here is breathtaking. A short downhill leads to the lakeside, where you’ll circle the northern perimeter. Deer statues stand on the lake’s east and west sides. Deer were likely abundant in ancient times. Of course, some still live in the forest today. This lakeside area is a great place for lunch, and there’s even a small observation deck on the east side.

Stage 2 ends at Baldan Bereeven Monastery. Baldan Bereeven Monastery is a Gelugpa (Yellow Hat) Buddhist monastery, whose name means “abundant rice.” Founded in 1654, it grew into one of the largest and most important monasteries in Mongolia during its mid-19th-century heyday, housing up to 8,000 monks. The monastery and its complex were destroyed by the Mongolian Communist regime in 1937. Today, three monasteries have been restored, and the grounds contain the remains of approximately 50 temples, stupas, and other religious structures.

locationBaldan Bereeven Monastery to Ömnödelger

Day 3 (72km, +723m)

From Baldan Bereeven Monastery, follow the Baruun Jargalant River eastward for 14 kilometers to reach the Deer Stones. Deer Stones are ancient megalithic monuments found in Siberia and Mongolia, often depicted with deer figures. The archaeological culture defined by these marker artifacts is called the Deer Stone Culture and is often associated with the Kheryksüür burial culture. Over 1,500 deer stones have been discovered to date, approximately 1,300 of which are in Mongolia, particularly in the well-watered steppe regions of northern Mongolia.

Thirty km from the start of Stage 3, you cross the Baruun Jargalant River and descend south. There’s a wooden bridge over the river. After 44 kilometers, you reach the village of Hentiy. The village of Henty has a rather peculiar appearance, with old, disused wooden buildings scattered about. There is also a large school building that is no longer in use. Some of the gers are inhabited.

locationÖmnödelger to Bayanmod

Day 4 (91km, +1,243m)

Tsenchernmandal Soum is also renowned for its unique ecological environment, encompassing taiga forests and grasslands. It boasts thriving wildlife, migratory birds, and pristine waters. Its thriving agriculture and livestock provide a vibrant opportunity to experience traditional Mongolian nomadic life. Tsenchernmandal Soum, a harmonious blend of nature, history, and traditional culture, offers a unique destination in the Khentii region, providing both a peaceful respite in nature and a historical experience. This region lies at the intersection of the coniferous forests and steppe regions of the Khentii Mountains, creating a unique natural environment where these two ecosystems coexist. The forests boast high biodiversity, with 27 species of rare wildlife, including argal serow, maral deer, mountain weasels, and brown bears. It is considered a key natural complex in the eastern Mongolian ecosystem.

Bayanmod is a town in Chemhermandal Soum. It offers services like a supermarket, bank, hospital, and public showers, so riders can restock if they need food or wait.

locationBayanmod to Baganuur

Day 5 (56km, +817m)

Heling Bayan Ulan Mountains, a mountainous region extending south from the Khentii Mountains, lies at the intersection of forests and grasslands, naturally enriched by abundant pastures and a mild climate. This is why it has long been known as “the mountain of a thousand winter pastures” (Myangan Uvuljuut).

Centered by the 2,042-meter Delgerkhang Peak, the region’s humid climate and abundant pastures provide ideal conditions for livestock to survive the harsh winters. During years of extreme cold or drought, hundreds of nomadic families from neighboring regions like Khentii, Tuyev, Dundgovi, and Dornogovi have traditionally migrated here, making it a prosperous winter haven.

Additional Resources

• The Malchin Trail is a supported bikepacking event that takes place on this route every August. Please visit MalchinTrail.com for details about the event.