Singletrack/MTB
Gravel/All-road
Dirt-road Touring
Fat-bike
Alex Kowalski and Eric House were the only singlespeeders at the 2025 Atlas Mountain Race, finishing the 1,300-kilometer route in just over seven days. Find a post-race reflection and photos from Alex here, accompanied by a handful of shots from the event team…
Words and photos by Alex Kowalski, additional photos by Nils Laengner
The Atlas Mountain Race (AMR) is not just a bike race; it’s a rite of passage. Founded by Nelson Trees, the mastermind behind some of the most unique and grueling bikepacking events in the world, the AMR is an 800-mile, self-supported race through the heart of Morocco. It’s a test of endurance, navigation, and mental fortitude, but more than that, it’s a gateway otherworldly landscapes and profound human connection. This year, the race took me and my fellow riders on a journey that transcended competition and became something far more meaningful.
The race begins in Marrakesh, and within hours, it throws riders into the towering High Atlas Mountains. The first major challenge is the relentless climb to Telouet Pass, the route’s highest point. The ascent is brutal, a baptism by fire that separates the prepared from the unprepared. From there, the route unfolds like a dream—or a nightmare, depending on your perspective. Rugged mountain passes, endless “gravel” roads, and technical singletrack give way to barren deserts, lush oases, and remote villages. The landscapes are surreal, but the real magic lies in the people who call these places home.
This year’s race started at 6 p.m., a strategic move by Nelson to encourage riders to push through the first night. For many, including me, this meant riding on a cocktail of adrenaline, caffeine, and sheer willpower. The cold night air bit at our fingers and toes, and the lack of sleep turned the dark hours into a blur of fatigue-induced hallucinations. Short naps on the side of the road became a necessity, but they were always interrupted by the sound of other riders passing by. By dawn, my body and mind were already cooked.
The next day brought a new challenge: the relentless Moroccan sun. As the temperature soared, my new friend Eric and I found ourselves seeking refuge in the shade of what appeared to be ancient ruins in a tiny, nameless village. We were sprawled on the ground, dozing off, when an older man approached us. At first, we thought he wanted us to leave, but we quickly realized he was inviting us into his home. His name was Nemus, and his hospitality was unlike anything I’d ever experienced.
Nemus and his wife welcomed us into their home with its porch built from bamboo, netting, and recycled materials. They set out blankets, prepared fresh mint tea, and served us bread, homemade olive oil, and almonds—all grown and processed in their garden. As we ate, Nemus joined us, while his wife sat nearby, smiling warmly. It was a moment of cultural immersion that shifted my perspective entirely. This wasn’t just a race anymore; it was an opportunity to connect with people and places in a way that few ever get to experience.
After a much-needed two-hour nap, we were woken by another round of tea, bread, and a freshly cooked omelette. It was a proper feast, and we left Nemus’ home feeling refreshed and deeply grateful. That experience set the tone for the rest of the race. Eric and I hadn’t started as a pair, but our similar gear ratios and matching metal flat-bar hardtails with 120mm forks made it easy to ride together. By the time we left Nemus’ home, we decided to finish the race as a team, aiming to become the first single-speed duo to complete the AMR.
The rest of the race was a battle of survival. Riding single-speed meant there was no room for coasting. Every pedal stroke demanded effort. We fell into a rhythm of riding hard, resting hard, and eating hard. The checkpoints along the route became lifelines, offering a chance to refuel and recharge. Egg omelettes, fresh bread, and mint tea became our staples, and luckily, I’m a big fan of all three.
As the miles ticked by, the race became less about placement and more about connections. The camaraderie among riders was incredible, but it was the people of Morocco who left the deepest impression. In many villages, it seemed like the entire community had come together to support us. Women set up makeshift kitchens to feed the steady stream of riders, while children lined the streets, waving and cheering as we passed. Eric and I made a point to greet everyone with a smile and a wave, and the warmth we received in return was overwhelming.
There were moments of challenge, of course. The terrain was unforgiving, the weather unpredictable, and the physical toll immense. But every time I felt like letting up, I thought of Nemus and his family, of the children who cheered us on, and of the countless strangers who offered us food, water, and encouragement. These moments reminded me why I ride.
In the end, Eric and I achieved our goal: we became the first single-speed duo to finish the Atlas Mountain Race, and unofficially, the second pair to cross the line this year. But the real victory was the experience itself. The AMR is more than a race; it’s a journey through some of the most breathtaking landscapes on earth, and a testament to the kindness and resilience of the human spirit.
As I reflect on this year’s race, I’m reminded of something Nelson once said, “The Atlas Mountain Race isn’t just about riding bikes. It’s about discovering what you’re capable of, and finding beauty in the unexpected.” This year, I discovered that beauty in the smiles of strangers, the taste of fresh bread, and the quiet moments of connection that made every mile worth it.
Until next year, Morocco. Shukran.
I’d like to give a huge shoutout to South City Stitchworks and Mica Cycles for their incredible support in my journey through events like the Atlas Mountain Race and beyond. Here’s to many more miles and adventures ahead!
Check out the 2025 Atlas Mountain Race Tracker page to follow along on the live tracking map, watch for ongoing race updates, and tune in for more event coverage. Find it here.
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