The Cateran Dirt Dash is a two-day bikepacking ride through the stunning surroundings of the Cairngorms National Park, offering dramatic scenery in the Cateran Ecomuseum, Scotland’s only museum without walls. Find a recap of this year’s event paired with a stunning collection of photos by Markus Stitz here…
A mild breeze keeps the midges away, while the sun breaks through the clouds and lights up the hills on either side of a small field in the Spittal of Glenshee. Situated right next to a river, which is crossed by an old bridge built by General Wade, the campsite of the Cateran Dirt Dash is basic, but not short of great views. People are sitting around a small fire pit, chatting away. In the distance, five riders approach, rolling down the old “road” from Kirkmichael to Glenshee, a route used by Queen Victoria on her journeys to and from Balmoral. As the riders cross the bridge, everyone turns around, claps, and welcomes them to the campsite.
Among the bunch is Stevie. He is 72 years old, riding the Dirt Dash on a Santos bike he used for travelling the world. The bike is loaded with two panniers and a roll over the rack, and it’s probably one of the heavier setups in the event. After the applause, everyone checks in, and shortly afterward, the last pizzas leave the horse box trailer, which is parked just opposite the field at Gulabin Lodge.
The field belongs to the owner of the lodges on the far side of the hill, pizza and logs are provided by Alex and Lewis from Stielow Pizza, and Helen and Tim, who run Gulabin Lodge and a small coffee cabin, provide coffee and breakfast. There are two gazebos on the campsite with plenty of snacks and water, so no one goes to bed hungry. Louise, my partner, checks everyone in with a smile.
After dropping her at the campsite and leaving the van there, I spent the afternoon in the hills, using my off-road cargo bike to shuttle bananas and snacks to a small shelter called the Upper Lunch Hut. Once a stop for the queen who rode her pony over these hills, the hut is the last rest before the finish. It’s manned by Bob Ellis, who has volunteered for the event since 2023. The Cateran Dirt Dash uses parts of a route created by Bob in his time as a councilor, the Cateran Trail. You would be hard-pressed to find anyone more passionate about this rugged yet utterly beautiful countryside than Bob. And seeing people hauling their bikes over the route initially created for walkers leaves a big smile on his face.
While Bob ticks off the last riders, Stevie enjoys a banana and oat bar. “Since my cancer treatment, I have had to slow down a bit, but I enjoyed meeting fellow cyclists, hearing their stories, and seeing the gear that they use on similar trips.” While Bob packs his pack and disappears into the distance, Stevie and the others set off for a final push up the hill, and I pack all remaining food onto my Tern Orox. Stevie’s heavy panniers get a lift to the highest point of the route, too. There is plenty of space on my bike.
The Cateran Dirt Dash is one part of a wider ecosystem that the Cateran Ecomuseum offers for cyclists. Run by volunteer directors, the idea for the “museum without walls” in Eastern Perthshire and Angus, Scotland, was born in 2019 with Clare Cooper. I joined the board of directors in 2023 when I bought a house in Alyth and moved both Bikepacking Scotland and Dirt Dash Events here. I wanted to give my time to a community that boasts not only an incredible history but also a spirit that makes running events like this not just easy but manageable.
My latest project as director is the Alyth Gravel Network, 13 routes that overlap and provide great riding from Alyth and the nearby towns and villages. While public transport is limited, Scotland’s electric Ember buses provide a much-needed connection between Dundee and Ballater, making it a little easier to leave the car at home.
The Cateran Dirt Dash was born out of another Ecomuseum project in 2023. Originally held at the beginning of May, it is now happening on the second holiday weekend in May. The start and finish are at Alyth Cyclery, which also provides a cafe and bike hire for the event and the small Perthshire town.
Dirt Dashes are not about going fast, nor are they about pushing the limits in how long people cycle. The three events, the Cateran Dirt Dash in May, the Yorkshire Coast Dirt Dash in June, and the Dunoon Dirt Dash in September, all have their own characteristics. A rider in 2026 compared the Cateran Dirt Dash to a mini-Highland Trail: “The route was brilliant. All the elements you might expect to experience in an off-road cycling adventure. Smooth gravel and tarmac, typical (but not too technical) single and double track. Hike a bike and resulting descents, even an eternal bog! Personally, I wouldn’t change a thing.”
The events were born out of the desire to provide an event for people who don’t want to put themselves into the deep end by joining an ultra-event from scratch. The social component is why many riders join the Dirt Dashes. Some have never done a bikepacking trip, while others are experienced bikepackers looking for a fun weekend to meet new people. Others are very experienced runners, triathletes, or even round-the-world motorcyclists who want to give off-road cycling a try.
The shared experience provides the support some riders seek for their first adventure. With funding from the nearby wind farm, the SSE Drumderg Community Fund, 13 riders could take part at half the normal cost. The funding provided an incentive for local riders to experience riding on their doorstep with others. Groups often underrepresented in the bikepacking world are encouraged to join the event, and while the entry fee is only one barrier, the funding certainly helped to broaden the appeal.
As with all the other Dirt Dashes, the route changes year on year. This year, I added new tracks through the fields of Strathmore to the start of day one, followed by a crossing of Drimmie Woods, before the second half of the day takes riders on the Cateran Trail to Kirkmichael and on to the campsite.
After a steep climb to Loch Beanie, the route gets much easier on the second day, and a hotel and cafe are welcome resupply points. The most technical of the three Dirt Dash routes features everything Scotland has to offer for bikepacking: fabulous views, fast gravel tracks, technical singletrail, and quiet roads. Due to the area’s geography, with the Cairngorms National Park forming part of the Cateran Ecomuseum, short hike-a-bike sections are unavoidable, as are the odd boggy sections.
The other Dirt Dashes have their own characteristics and evolve year on year, but it’s the community spirit that stays the same while routes change. Some riders have been part of all four events to date, others hop between different Dashes each year, and others come to ride each route once. “It’s such a relaxed and rewarding format. It’s encouraging, ideal for friends who like outdoors and accessible adventures.”
If you’re looking to race fast, a Dirt Dash probably isn’t for you. If you want a great weekend on the bike with good people while not caring too much how fast or slow you go, you’ll probably love it.
More information about the events is available at dirtdash.cc. The Yorkshire Coast Dirt Dash is up next on June 13-14 and the Dunoon Dirt Dash on September 26-27.
Further Reading
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