An Introduction to Australia’s Alpine Huts

Scattered amid the endless hills of the Australian Alps and offering shelter to weary travelers are some 200 alpine huts dating back to as early as the mid-1800s. In this introductory guide, Ty Domin shares some background on the huts, insights about what makes them a unique resource, and details on how bikepackers can both enjoy and help preserve them for future generations. Dive in here…

In South Eastern Australia, the Australian Alps are a bikepacking wonderland consisting of two regions: the Snowy Mountains to the north (New South Wales and the Australian Capital Territory) and the High Country to the south (Victoria). These two regions fall within a 600-kilometre portion of the 3,500-kilometre Great Dividing Range, extending the length of the east coast of the Australian continent. If you want to explore the Alps without previous knowledge, you can sign up for the Victoria Divide 550, Hunt 1000, Cloudride 1000, or Terra Australis (6,250 kilometres) bikepacking events or follow their routes. However, a more fun option would be to choose a few of the almost 200 alpine huts found amidst the Alps and design a route around visiting these historic wonders.

  • Australia's alpine huts
  • Australia's alpine huts

Much like the bothies, cabins, and refuges around the world, Australia’s alpine huts tell the story of the region, dating to as far back as the 1860s. The huts come from every era of European history in the Australian Alps, and their presence in particular locations also acts as a marker for the far older and continuing landscape story of the Aboriginal Traditional Owners and first inhabitants who came to the region at least 21,000 years ago.

Australia's alpine huts

The huts were built for simple shelter by graziers, gold miners, foresters, government workers, skiers, and bushwalkers. They now make it possible to rely on the prospect of dry and warm shelter at the end of a long and challenging day in a region where it’s common to accrue 2,500 metres of elevation gain for every 100 kilometres on a loaded bike, often accompanied by the weather challenges that come with any mountainous terrain. Each hut’s architecture, weatherproofing, facilities, and general vibe are extremely varied, which is part of their allure. Some huts lived their useful lives as family homesteads and have numerous rooms, furniture, insulation, and multiple fireplaces. Others are nothing more than four walls and a tin roof with a dirt floor. If you’re lucky, they have a saw for cutting wood, too.

  • Australia's alpine huts
  • Australia's alpine huts

What makes them unique is that unlike similar structures found around the world, none of the huts require booking, payment, or membership of any organization to use. If there is room for you to erect a tent nearby, you are welcome to shelter in the hut. We had almost 20 people warming by the heat of the fire in sub-zero conditions during an organized winter solstice overnighter in Namadgi National Park, with tents as far as the eye could see. The key is that they aren’t intended to be slept in (other than in case of emergency), so floor space and bunk room is not a concern, and the term “first come, first served” does not apply. I’d rather sleep outside anyway, especially given the affection Australian creepy crawlies and wildlife have for any standing structure. 

Another reason the huts are unique is that, in general, visitor traffic is very low due to the original purpose of most of the huts. With the exception of a few, located on long-distance hiking trails, most of them weren’t constructed on heavily trafficked motorized or hiking/biking routes like many of those found in Europe, New Zealand, and North America. The graziers, prospectors, hikers, and backcountry skiers who chose the locations for the huts weren’t on their way anywhere. They were generally confined to the high country for the purpose of livelihood or recreation, so almost all of the huts are hidden away in seemingly random locations, making them perfect destinations for keen bicycle-powered adventurers.

Australia's alpine huts
  • Australia's alpine huts
  • Australia's alpine huts
  • Australia's alpine huts

We’ve visited over 50 huts in the last decade and can count on one hand the number of times we’ve shared them with strangers. And those nights ended up full of laughter and camaraderie anyway. Note that we’ve been choosing wisely, avoiding holidays and huts within a kilometre or two of any open road.

Whilst the huts seem like a dream come true, there are some things to be mindful of. As mentioned, they are not intended to be slept in, so they’re not an excuse to leave the tent at home. A small number are on stretches of trail within wilderness areas where bikes are prohibited (Parks Australia’s online resources outline restrictions clearly). Most huts have a pit toilet within a short walk, but none have rubbish collection facilities, so just like wild camping, pack out what you bring in. Always ensure any fire you make is completely extinguished before your departure.

  • Australia's alpine huts
  • Australia's alpine huts
  • Australia's alpine huts
  • Australia's alpine huts
  • Australia's alpine huts

Huts are typically located relatively close to a water source or have a rainwater tank, but make sure you bring a filter and water-carrying gear. Also, don’t erect your tent within 30 metres of a waterway. More information on the Huts Code can be found on the Australian Alps National Parks website, and you can download the location of around 120 of the huts once you become a member of the Kosciuszko Huts Association. Doing so is cheaper than a single night in a paid campsite! Otherwise, they’re clearly marked on almost all National Parks-provided maps.

Australia's alpine huts

I can almost hear the entire northern hemisphere scoff at what we Australians call “Alps,” and I get it. I now live in the Canadian Rockies, and each of the 13 consecutive passes we undertook on our journey across France and Italy on our last big bikepacking trip involved more continuous climbing than you’d get anywhere in the Aussie Alps to arrive at the highest peak (Mt. Kosciuszko, 2,228 metres), which is really a hilltop that’s difficult to differentiate from other nearby hilltops. That’s not to say it’s easy riding, though.

This was something brought sharply into focus when a couple of friends and I decided to link 13 huts together in a 114-kilometre loop within the Jagungal Wilderness in Kosciuszko National Park. The 3,400 metres of climbing on rough tussocky trails had us doubting our plan to complete it within 24 hours. Even 48 hours wouldn’t have been a casual affair, but due to the almost complete lack of resources in the wilderness areas, extending the timeframe would also have meant carrying more gear.

Australia's alpine huts
  • Australia's alpine huts
  • Australia's alpine huts

In short, it’s easy to bite off more than you can chew in the Australian Alps due to the undulating terrain, lack of maintained trail surfaces and resupply, and unpredictable weather. There’s a reason the 2018 winner of the Tour Divide, Lewis Ciddor, still holds the 4.3-day fastest-known time on the Hunt 1000 route from way back in 2016 (the suggested timeframe for the current event lies at 7-14 days). Dot-watching the Cloudride 1000 is an activity in witnessing half the dots struck through, and the commentary is pure speculation due to the remoteness (from both humans and cellular reception) of the riders for most of the race.

As with any alpine area, winter (June to August) is not usually the best time to ride a bike at higher altitudes. Despite common misconceptions, Australia has almost 2,000 square kilometres of snow coverage in winter, but luckily, there are a few huts located at lower elevations, meaning you can access them year-round. Fires have already claimed almost 20 of the huts in the last couple of decades; needless to say, some form of satellite communication device is vital if you decide to explore during periods of fire risk.

Australia's alpine huts
  • Australia's alpine huts
  • Australia's alpine huts
  • Australia's alpine huts

The Alpine Huts of Australia are a significant asset to the cultural heritage of the region and an even greater asset to those of us alive today and able to make the most of the investment in time and effort people have put into establishing and maintaining these shelters. The speed at which bikepackers can cover ground makes them the perfect goal for an overnighter or a longer-term journey where remoteness and the occasional luxury is appreciated in good or bad weather. 

  • Australia's alpine huts
  • Australia's alpine huts
  • Australia's alpine huts
  • Australia's alpine huts
  • Australia's alpine huts

Now, I’m sure there are a few gatekeepers of the Alpine Hut world who would prefer that I didn’t advertise them to the wider world. To them, I say that first of all, they’re not a secret to anyone already willing to put effort into exploring the alpine backcountry, and what has kept the more remote huts so wonderful is the fact that they take commitment, knowledge, and endurance to reach. There’s no risk of them being overrun any time soon. Additionally, a still-smoldering fire was recently discovered inside a vacant hut within Namadgi National Park, and I see education and awareness of their cultural heritage and care requirements as the key to keeping them safe and available to all so instances like these don’t occur in the first place. Lastly, as they’re almost all maintained by volunteers, and the more awareness the community has for them, the more resources will become available for upkeep through volunteer labour, membership, and donations (which are highly encouraged if you do decide to utilize a hut!).

Australia's alpine huts

In addition to the resources linked in the text above, you can find further information via the Victorian High Country Huts Association and the Australian Alps National Parks.

Further Reading

Make sure to dig into these related articles for more info...

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