Poorts and Passes: From Calitzdorp Over the Swartberg to De Rust

Weaving in and out of the Swartberg Mountains and the Cape Fold has carried us over and through well over 25 poorts and passes.

The Western Cape is all but encircled by sharp mountain ranges such as the Swartberg, Langeberg and Cedarberg. The pioneers of South Africa breached these mountains and developed routes that would help expand the farming trade and push the frontiers of the country via wagon and foot travel. As a result there are almost 500 beautifully carved gateways that carry travelers through majestic landscapes and provide links to sometimes vastly different ecosystems.

A pass, by obvious definition, is a road built over mountains at an approachable part in the range. Here, they were sometimes based on ancient animal or foot paths and bolstered to allow wagons carrying daring explorers and goods to be traded. Although some passes are paved, some are gravel, and many still offer amazingly rugged rock-strewn dirt descents weaving through countless switchbacks that melt disc brakes.

Poorts are quite different. They are natural passages through the mountains cut by primordial rivers and the roads through them are generally flat in nature. Everything is big here and that fact becomes strikingly evident within a poort. Massive cliff walls and stunning spires of folded and jagged rock loom above the roads which weave through the stone rivers. Maringspoort is one of the most famous, and although it’s paved, when approached from North to South it offers a slow freewheel coast that allows full attention to the wonderland of scenery.

The most magical aspect of these mountain doorways are the places they connect. Sometimes the passes can take you from desert to a lush floral landscape, sometimes from farmland to town. Meeting people who live in the Klein Karoo, often near a pass or poort where water is abundant often say, ‘This is the best place in South Africa.’ So far, I don’t disagree with any of them.

Bike Touring South Africa - Roger Young - Groenfontein
Off of the beautiful Groenfontein road, we stayed 2 nights in the guest room attached to Roger Young’s photography gallery and studio. Both evenings we joined he and partner Phyllis for drinks, dinner and great conversation. In passing, Roger offered a few great photography tips, including, ‘Be careful what gets thrown away, sometimes good landscapes can be flat, then you flip them to grayscale and they come to life…’
Bike Touring South Africa - Roger Young - Groenfontein
The lush landscape around Kruisrivier.
Bike Touring South Africa - Groenfontein Pass
The Swartberg appearing over the farms in the distance.
Bike Touring South Africa - Groenfontein Pass
Roger was kind enough to wake at 5AM and take us the final 30kms to the foot of the Swartberg pass to begin our climb, in attempt to beat the intense heat.
Bike Touring South Africa - Groenfontein Pass
The foothills of the Swartberg unfolding.
Bike Touring South Africa - Groenfontein Pass
The ascent begins.
Bike Touring South Africa - Swartberg Pass
Clouds pouring over the Swartberg created some magical light and composition.
Bike Touring South Africa - Swartberg Pass Bike Touring South Africa - Swartberg Pass Bike Touring South Africa - Swartberg Pass Bike Touring South Africa - Swartberg Pass Bike Touring South Africa - Swartberg Pass
Bike Touring South Africa - Swartberg Pass

Gin, tiny in comparison, makes her way up the steep switchbacks over the stacked rock road.
Bike Touring South Africa - Swartberg Pass

Halfway up, a decorated sign teases us that it’s near the top.
Bike Touring South Africa - Swartberg Pass
The view from halfway.
Bike Touring South Africa - Swartberg Pass

Look closely to see the klipsprigner, a tiny species of antelope standing atop a rock.
Bike Touring South Africa - Swartberg Pass
Gin pauses to look back as we inch up the pass.
Bike Touring South Africa - Swartberg Pass
At the top looking over into Die Hel, plus a beard photo-bomb.
Bike Touring South Africa - Swartberg Pass
Beginning the long, rocky and jarring descent.
Bike Touring South Africa - Swartberg Pass
An eternal downhill where we had to pause on several occasions to let our brakes cool.
Bike Touring South Africa - Swartberg Pass Bike Touring South Africa - Swartberg Pass
Tall Lord of the Rings spires loom over the poort toward the bottom of Swartberg pass.
Bike Touring South Africa - Prince Albert
A festive gentleman greets us on the streets of Prince Albert on Christmas eve.
Bike Touring South Africa - Prince Albert
Windmills are everywhere in the Karoo.
Bike Touring South Africa - Prince Albert Bike Touring South Africa - Swartberg Pass
These downhill scooters are catching on here, fully equipped with hydraulic disc brakes.
Bike Touring South Africa - Biltong
Gin was sad it was closed… she’s becoming quite the fiend for this magical jerky-like substance.
Bike Touring South Africa - Merry Christmas
Merry Chrismas. We did 80kms while all of you back in the US were still dreaming of sugar plums.
Bike Touring South Africa - Prince Albert Pass

Farm bike.
Bike Touring South Africa - Prince Albert Valley
Wving goodbye to the Prince Albert Valley over the Kredouwpas.
Bike Touring South Africa
Where South African bikes go to die.
Bike Touring South Africa - De Rust
Making flat bread in De Rust (the rest).
Bike Touring South Africa - De Rust Bike Touring South Africa - De Rust

For more information on this route, including GPS and logistics, click here. Also, check out our growing list of bikepacking and dirt road touring routes.

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