On Five Wheels: Family Bikepacking in the Jura

Words and photos by Lucas Milliard and Clémentine Bourgues

Last summer, we set off on a grand adventure: a crossing of the picturesque Jura region in France. We were accompanied by our nine-month-old daughter, Paula, as well as a good friend, Tom, who joined us for part of the trip. Here’s our story of making memories by bike with our young daughter in tow, narrated by the two of us in turns.

Day 1

Let the adventure begin! We depart from Lyon to catch the first train, then another, before arriving at the starting point of the Grande Traversée du Jura (GTJ) in Mandeure. Along the way, fate strikes as we run into Hélène and Laurent at the Besançon train station, friends from Annecy who are also embarking on the GTJ! We start the trail in the early afternoon, with a first stop at a bakery and a second stop for a mechanical issue.

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Lucas mounted the trailer wheel on the wrong side—off to a great start! We ride a few kilometers under a few raindrops, but fortunately, it doesn’t last long. After a long climb on which local teenagers overtake us on their motocross bikes, we finally find our spot for the evening, and it’s no ordinary spot! It’s at the top of a cliff, overlooking the valley, with a splendid view. Lucas and I are exhausted! But Paula is full of energy and doesn’t want to go to bed. We manage to put her to sleep around 9 p.m. with a tiny bit of pressure. We’ve been bragging for two weeks that Paula sleeps through the night while camping, so we hope we didn’t jinx it too much.

Day 2

Morning verdict? A well-deserved lie-in until 8 a.m.! Best of all, we even had to wake Paula up. This morning is eventful as Paula has a little surprise in store for us on the GTJ: a sixth tooth making its debut. Oh, Paula, you really shouldn’t have! We pedal until lunchtime, when everyone takes the opportunity to take a refreshing dip in the Doubs—including Paula! We reach the Swiss border by late afternoon. A little further down the road, we can finally stop at a campsite.

Day 3

No leisurely lie-in this time. Let’s get going! After all, a long day awaits us as we make our way back to France! My knee has been bothering me since yesterday, so Clémentine carries Paula’s water to lighten my load, and I try to take it easy on steep climbs. The first few kilometers pass slowly as we follow the Doubs on a trail, feeling like we’re the only ones in the world. Gradually, we gain elevation in the gorge, and the scenery becomes magnificent! The trail gives way to more technical singletrack, which is especially challenging with our loaded bikes. Occasionally, we cross fields and greet horses and cows while Paula leans over in her trailer, intrigued, to get a better look.

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Finally, we reach France again, and Paula starts to get impatient. Just one more kilometer, and we can enjoy a long break before the village grocery store opens. We arrange to meet Tom a few kilometers ahead. He set off from Mandeure that morning to join us directly without passing through Switzerland. He should arrive in the evening, but with several punctures and a nasty fall, nothing is certain! In the end, we all arrive at the GPS point of our bivouac simultaneously. We spot a cyclist in a billowing pink shirt with a bushy beard and a Petzl climbing helmet. It could only be Tom! We have a reunion apéritif, chat away, and then head off to bed.

Day 4

The day begins with a gentle awakening at 1:42 am: I discover that Paula enjoys expressing herself at all hours of the day and even at night. After a proper wake-up at 7 a.m., we set off towards Morteau, much to the delight of our taste buds. We stop for a peaceful lunch in a park and devour the cheese we purchased from one of the many fruitières that line the GTJ. We hit the road again, and once we leave the town, we take the opportunity to cross rivers to cool off. The temperature is 31°C (88°F) in the shade, and we eagerly anticipate returning to higher altitudes.

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The heat is intense, and the trails are challenging, but Paula doesn’t complain. After yet another ascent, we pause briefly at the summit and decide to split up: Mom, Tom, and Paula head directly to the campsite 10 kilometers (6.2 miles) away, while I set off to explore the region and search for wine, chips, and chocolate: a clearly “healthy” detour. As evening falls, we reunite for a five-star raclette feast (although some might regret it a bit), and we indulge in a legendary local Côte du Jura wine.

Day 5

Finally! Paula’s first full night’s sleep, but unfortunately, it’s Clémentine who wakes us up this time, overcome by violent nausea in the middle of the night. She even has to leave the tent urgently to vomit. Come morning, Clémentine still feels terrible and is unable to swallow anything. The day ahead promises to be challenging! We have a few kilometers of descent separating us from Pontarlier, so we make an effort to hit the road with the goal of reaching the town to stop at a pharmacy and assess the situation.

After paracetamol, a spasfon, and a pregnancy test, we settle for the day in a park. Clémentine leaves one final souvenir before falling asleep in her sleeping bag in broad daylight. Meanwhile, Tom explores and does some shopping, including cheese, while I try to keep Paula entertained in the park. Clémentine manages to swallow two spoonsful of mashed potatoes, and we finally decide to resume our journey in the late afternoon.

A long ascent awaits us under the scorching sun. Clémentine summons her last bit of strength to slowly climb to the top. We enter a forest until we reach the summit of the massif. It’s time to find a place for the night. A barbed wire fence separates the meadow in two, and we spot some cows in the distance, so we decide to pitch the tent on the other side of the fence. Paula has been asleep for a while when suddenly a herd of calves appears and comes towards us. Oh no! It seems there was a herd on this side of the fence as well.

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Tom tries to shoo the herd away, but they come back soon enough. Nightfall is approaching, and we need to find a solution. We spot another barbed wire fence a few dozen meters away, dividing a third parcel of land. The vegetation there is intact, so chances of encountering livestock are slim. We decide to relocate the camp. I take Paula out of the tent, lying on her mattress, and she doesn’t stir. Clémentine moves the tent and then the bikes, and I lay Paula back in her place, incognito!

Day 6

Today, energy has returned. I start the day in better shape and with a hearty appetite! Lucas prepares a small mashed potato breakfast for me, a delight! Paula is in a good mood, too. She amuses herself amid the cows. She faces them and crawls toward them. Who do you think made the biggest impact? Paula, of course! Impressed by this beautiful little child, the cows made a quick about-face. We take advantage of a segment consisting mainly of roads to cover kilometers quickly. In the mid-afternoon, it’s time for a well-deserved break: we stop near Mouthe and enjoy the source of the Doubs, a charming spot where only the most daring can brave a very quick shower because the water is icy cold! Legend has it that Paula dipped her bottom there.

Day 7

Today’s ride was incredible, with beautiful gravel sections and even some mountain biking to reach Les Rousses. Paula had a blast in the trailer and burst into laughter with every acceleration from Lucas. Tom found a place for us to shower for the night: Victor welcomed us to his mother’s house with his brothers. They are a family of adventurers who have traveled the world by bicycle. We are received like royalty, with all the comforts we were missing. We spend the evening sharing our adventures over crepes and a glass of cider before going to sleep soundly.

Day 8

Really? We made it this far? And not a single rest day! This morning, Paula treats us to another late wake-up, around 8 a.m., which is a relief! We are still a bit exhausted. We must admit that leaving Victor and his mother—revitalized thanks to the comfort they offered us in the past few hours—is not easy. The trail quickly veers through fields, and once again, we have to open another cattle gate to continue our journey. But this time, there’s a sign on the gate: “Danger, bull! Please close the gate.”

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We hesitate to enter the field. A quick glance at the GPS for an alternative route yields nothing. In the end, we decide to go for it, trying to stay close to the barbed wire in case we need to exit the field quickly. The path seems endless, and there’s no sign of a bull so far. Finally, we come face to face with the farmer maneuvering his tractor! He explains that there’s no bull! The sign is simply to help keep the (many) cyclists on the trail and prevent them from cutting across the fields. We burst into laughter… and relief!

Today is once again an efficient day: it’s 4 p.m., and we have covered 40 kilometers when the rain stops us. Fortunately, we find a small cabin in a village that offers us shelter. I’m tired, and a big debate ensues: should we continue all the way? Head to the next train station? The rain dampens my spirits a bit. But, after some reflection, I want to complete the adventure despite the weariness and fatigue. The rain continues to fall, so we decide to stop here for the night and take advantage of our shelter to sleep dry. We could have ridden a few more hours, but so be it. “Well, there you have it. Finally, a rest day!” Lucas exclaimed.

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Paula has made the most of the Jura region, mastering standing up perfectly. Every break is an opportunity for cuddles and climbing on Mom and Dad. While we settle into the cabin, Tom says his goodbyes and sets off in the rain to complete the trail within his allotted time. Lucas finishes cleaning, sweeping the floor with a gust of air. The cabin shines! Night finally falls, Paula is asleep, and we take advantage of the proximity to the village to have a cozy evening with some delicious pizzas.

Day 9

Dawn breaks for Paula at 6 a.m. It’s perfect timing since we have a big program ahead today: The climb of the GTJ. Plus, our arrival is approaching in two days, and we would like to ride enough to stay ahead of our schedule. But, this morning, waking up remains challenging: it’s cold and damp after the night’s showers. It’s hard to get motivated. Except for Paula, who explores her new room with a headlamp strapped to her forehead!

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We finally hit the road at 8 a.m. The sun hasn’t yet made an appearance, and we’re freezing. After an endless descent, we reach the base of today’s challenge. Paula is wide awake, so I push ahead at full speed. Each at our own pace, we’ll meet at Poizat: there is a festival today there, and we’ll hopefully be able to enjoy some fries. It’s nearing the end of our journey, but the toughest part lies ahead: at the top of this climb, we’ll reach the high plateaus of Bugey. Crossing it is expected to take us a whole day.

Regardless, we can’t afford to spend more time there as there are no water or food supplies. In the early afternoon, we finally reach the plateau. We leave the asphalt behind and continue climbing through the woods. It’s sometimes very steep, but fatigue no longer weighs us down. After all these days of cycling, our legs seem to respond mechanically without a moment’s hesitation. A magnificent singletrack trail awaits us for the rest of the day. It’s a well-deserved descent, and we all rejoice!

Day 10

This morning, we are tired. Exhausted, even. But knowing it’s the last day motivates us to crawl out of our sleeping bags. We quickly gulp breakfast and hop back on our saddles, ready to finish this GTJ adventure. Yesterday’s rain made the paths muddy and slippery, so we have to pedal rhythmically and maintain balance to avoid falling. Luckily, the spectacle that unfolds before us on the plateau is incredible: the landscapes are stunning. The meadows reveal themselves under a light morning mist, creating an autumnal ambiance.

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We warm up quickly during the first climb. By late morning, we pass by a lodge where some young students supply us with bottled water. Fantastic! But now comes probably the hardest part of our trip. The track is extremely demanding. It’s steep, it’s long, and we struggle to push our loaded bikes. It’s not even interesting. We eventually reach the end of the trail and emerge from the forest. We join the asphalt, and all that remains is to climb the last kilometer to Col du Grand Colombier. It doesn’t seem so steep! But in the end, it is. This final kilometer is at a 10% gradient, and it truly finishes us off.

At the summit, the reward awaits: an incredible view of Mont Blanc and the end of all positive elevation gain for our adventure! Hooray! All that’s left is to descend to the bottom of the valley, reaching Culoz, where the train to Marseille awaits us. After a long break at the Col’s refreshment stand and a tray of fries offered as a reward by the restaurateurs, we let gravity do the rest of the work until we find a bivouac spot for the night. For our last night in a tent, there’s nothing better than pitching it at a scenic viewpoint and enjoying a memorable sunset over the Aravis Range.

Day 11

That’s it, it’s over! A short hour’s drive brings us to Culoz. We quickly stop by the bakery before patiently waiting for the train. Our destination: Lyon, and then Marseille, where we can finally rest for good! Unless we take the opportunity to go rock climbing in the Calanques?

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