Singletrack/MTB
Gravel/All-road
Dirt-road Touring
Fat-bike
Riding the Trans Ecuador Mountain Bike Route: Patagonia to Alaska Ep. 10
The latest episode chronicling Ilse and Ryan “Kodak” Brown’s bikepacking journey from Argentina to Alaska highlights their time riding across Ecuador on the Trans Ecuador Mountain Bike Route. Find a written reflection and photos from Ryan here, including some standout moments and tips for anyone interested in riding the TEMBR…
Words and photos by Ryan “Kodak” Brown
Ten months into our journey across the Americas, we are feeling… burnt out. My father’s leukemia diagnosis left me heartbroken and disoriented. Our time in the high Andes of Peru had worn down both our bicycles and our spirits. With a flight home in December to be with my family, we had one more month of cycling to survive. Ilse and I close the doors on Peru and throw ourselves into the next chapter: Ecuador.
Thanks to the combined efforts of Michael Dammer and Cass Gilbert, plus the ever-inspiring video guide published here on BIKEPACKING.com by Jay Ritchey, the Trans Ecuador Mountain Bike Route (TEMBR) has become a beloved exploration for many cyclists crossing the country. Ilse and I were desperate for a change as we crossed the border from Peru: a fresh landscape, a different people, and a new rhythm. We envisioned rolling pastures, warm encounters, and a chance to finally slow down and savor the moment. The Trans Ecuador delivered exactly that, and more.
What truly stood out for us were the small, everyday moments: the milkman selling fresh yoghurt, sisters showing us their newborn piglets, the laundry lady asking curious questions about life in Belgium. In Ecuador, there’s always time for a conversation, a friendly thumbs-up, and some sound advice. We pedaled through green hills, afternoon fog, and refreshing rain showers. At night, we camped on village football fields or stayed at “hospedajes” that were full of character.
Ecuador was the change we needed. It renewed our smiles and was a balm for our worries, a band-aid for our hearts. We often overheard a phrase in bike shops and among cyclists across South America: “La bicicleta es una medicina sobre dos ruedas” (The bicycle is medicine on two wheels). Looking back at our time in Ecuador, we know they were right.
For those looking to traverse the TEMBR, I would share a few tips. Number one, pack light! While it’s doable on heavy steeds like ours, the climbs are steeper than you can imagine! Your legs will thank you with every pedal stroke. Number two, prepare to be wet! While we were a bit late for the dry season, soaking downpours can occur at any time. The weather is tropical and mostly warm, reducing the risk of hypothermia, but always be prepared. Number three, don’t be shy! We found the people of Ecuador to be warm and friendly. With options for stealth camping more limited than other routes in South America, we found ourselves asking to stay with the bomberos (firefighters), at schools, and on community soccer fields. Number four, iOverlander. We found this app the most helpful for finding places to camp and avoiding trouble along the route.
See more from Ryan “Kodak” Brown and Ilse on the site here, and give Ryan a follow on Instagram.
Further Reading
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