From Tokyo to Kyoto by Bike (Video)

Words, photos, and video by Lea Lemaire and Luca Zander

The idea for this journey originated about eight years ago, in 2017, when Lea came across a video featuring Juliet Elliot and Dave Noakes touring from Tokyo to Kyoto. While that particular video is no longer online, the valuable tips and tricks video from their journey is still posted. Since then, Lea has never stopped dreaming about undertaking a similar trip but hasn’t found sufficient time off from work. Luca had been aware of Lea’s dream since they first met, and given his shared passion for Japan and adventure, he eagerly embraced the idea.

Last year, we finally were able to turn the dream into reality. While the plan was initially to make it a camping trip, we ultimately opted for hotel and traditional ryokan stays. This decision was primarily influenced by the weather conditions during that time of the year, which would have required us to carry a lot more equipment.

The Route

To create our route, we initially consulted articles and blog posts to gain insights into others’ experiences. Elevation was a key factor in determining a realistic daily distance to cover, especially because our training took place in the very flat Netherlands. We adopted a “direction over speed” mindset, which meant prioritizing a leisurely pace to fully enjoy the journey, planning for no more than 80 kilometers per day. Aside from a rest day in Nara on the seventh day, we kept a steady pace to reach our pre-booked accommodations every night. After conducting research and having a rough path in mind, we used Strava to map it out and examined heat maps for further refinement. We then divided the route into manageable segments of 60 to 80 kilometers per day. We made final adjustments as we searched for accommodations; not every city along our route seemed to have suitable options.

The Ride

The ride itself was breathtaking, with each day presenting its own unique character. The initial challenge was a 70-kilometer ride from Tokyo to Lake Yamanaka, reaching an elevation of 1,473 meters. Although the long, slow climb tested our legs, the first sight of Mt. Fuji made it worthwhile. We spent the following day circling Mt. Fuji, offering diverse perspectives of the majestic mountain. The third day was a cold and continuous three-hour downpour, but the promise of an onsen (traditional Japanese hot bath) and a cold beer upon arrival kept our motivation going.

The subsequent days featured clear skies but strong headwinds, making a 50-kilometer stretch take almost five hours. Thankfully, the stunning views made up for it. Between Irago and Toba, a ferry ride was the only alternative to contouring the bay, which would have added extra days to our journey. Fortunately, throughout the trip, we only encountered one flat tire, which was easily fixed, thanks to a timely onigiri lunch break! For the rest, while we generally stuck to the plan, occasionally veering onto side streets when riding on major roads often led to delightful discoveries of peaceful roads lined with traditional Japanese houses and gardens.

The Bikes and Gear

In 2017, when Lea’s dream of bikepacking in Japan began to take shape, she chose a Surly Cross-Check 700c steel frame for the journey. Her equipment included two 35L Arkel rear panniers and a snack pack on the handlebar. This setup traveled with her over the years all the way from Montreal to Amsterdam to Japan. Luca, on the other hand, rode a Kona Rove AL700 2022 aluminum frame equipped with an 8L Topeak Front-Loader bag, a 15L Backloader-X from Topeak, and an AGU Venture frame bag. A lighter, more comfortable, and ergonomic packing.

We intentionally opted for a minimalist approach, carrying only the essentials. This included bike tools, repair kits, and a single bike lock with an extra-long cable (we didn’t plan to leave our bikes unattended for too long, plus, Japan’s low theft rates provided a sense of security). After much consideration, we decided against bringing cycling shoes and clipless pedals. Instead, we both chose BBB platform mountain bike pedals to accommodate a single pair of shoes. Our clothing selection was purposefully lean, featuring one cycling kit (shorts and jersey), which was washed in the shower each night, along with a few pairs of cycling socks. Additionally, we packed a puffer jacket, a raincoat, one wool t-shirt, and a pair of pants for exploring cities at night.

A few learnings and takeaways

To be frank, despite the extensive research we conducted before our trip, we had anticipated encountering more bicycle-friendly roads. Maybe we’ve been a bit spoiled here in the Netherlands, given our well-developed cycling infrastructure. Nevertheless, Japanese culture is inherently courteous, and we experienced a high level of consideration from all drivers. They consistently created safe spaces when passing us, contributing to a sense of security throughout our journey.

No taxi was willing to transport us with those large bike boxes to and from the airport. We often found ourselves walking with these heavy boxes. This led us to improvise a rolling pad to ease the process. We purchased wooden chopping boards and two wheels from a Daiso (equivalent of a dollar store) during our return trip from Kyoto to Tokyo. We screwed the wheels onto the board, taped the plank to the boxes, and created a makeshift rolling system. It worked remarkably well, attracting some curious looks in the train station!

We employed another trick to minimize the walking with the boxes in train stations, especially in big cities. We proactively identified wheelchair-accessible entrances and lifts in advance. This strategy allowed us to avoid staircases and reduce the walking distances to reach the train platform.

Some other best practices:

• Book accommodations for every night in advance, especially outside of larger cities, where options are limited.
• When traveling with bikes in Japan, hotels are the preferred option. Understandably, Airbnb hosts are not very enthusiastic about accommodating bikes inside the house. However, hotels consistently offer secure areas under surveillance to store our bikes.
• When booking ryokan and hotels, ensure to select establishments featuring an onsen. Although it’s a common amenity, it’s not guaranteed. The feeling of easing into a piping hot bath after a day of riding in the cold is truly magical.

The End?

No. Cycling has proven to be the ultimate means of discovering a country. Venturing beyond the well-known paths, seeing the countryside, and immersing in the charm of smaller villages has been a source of immense joy. Many months after our trip, we continue to acknowledge the privilege we have had—both financially and in the chance of having an exceptional travel buddy to do this with. Undoubtedly, this journey stands out as the most beautiful adventure we have ever embarked on, feeding a deep love for cycling as a unique way to explore a destination. Stay tuned for more adventures to come!

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