La Travesia Oriental

When to go

• October to April is the ideal time to ride. The summer (May-September) is dangerously hot in the desert and prone to hurricanes/mudslides in the mountains.
• Some sections can’t be ridden in the rainy season, either because the road follows the dry river bed, which will be flowing with water, or in one case, because of a significant river crossing which will usually be too high to pass in the wet season. These locations are marked on the map.

Dangers & Annoyances

• Safety Warning: While this route goes through areas that are generally very safe, with low cartel activity, it’s always wise to check with locals in case the situation changes. I felt extremely safe for the entirety of my time riding La Travesía Oriental, with no issues, but it’s always good to take care. It’s best to avoid riding at night.
• Expect police checkpoints, which are common in the area.
• Start Early: Beating the heat is critical. For the major 1,000-metre+ climbs, plan to camp at the base the night before. Tackling big elevation gains in the cool morning air saves significant energy. Ideally, aim to reach a town by early afternoon to wait out the peak temperatures in the shade.

What Bike

• This route is quite rough in places and is best suited to a mountain bike. I did it comfortably on a hardtail with 29 x 2.25″ tyres, but I would have been even happier with something slightly wider, so I’d suggest fitting the widest tyres you can, especially if on a rigid bike.
• The route could be done on a gravel bike, but expect it to be quite uncomfortable for some sections.
• Most importantly, whichever bike you bring, you’ll want the lowest gears you possibly can to help you out with all the steep climbs, and be sure to pack light!
• Brakes: You will encounter descents that lose more than 1,500 metres of elevation in one go, sometimes on steep gradients. It would be prudent to fit fresh brake pads before starting, and bring spares.
• Tires: Tubeless is the smart choice due to goat heads (thorns) and sharp limestone.

Logistics

• Language: In rural towns, knowing basic Spanish phrases is essential for buying water and food, and it’s very rare to find anyone who speaks English. If you don’t speak Spanish, download Google Translate for offline use, as you often won’t have service.
• Cash is King: Credit cards will work in a few of the bigger towns, but most places will be cash only. It’s best to stock up whilst you’re in the bigger towns, as smaller settlements won’t always have banks or ATMs.
• Transport: Monterrey (MTY) is a major international hub. Bus travel with a bike in Mexico is generally easy; ETN, ADO, or Primera Plus lines often take bikes in the hold. Zimapán, at the end of the route, is a smaller hub, but it’s easy to get from there to the capital, Mexico City, by bus.

IMPORTANT NOTE: I chose to end the route in Zimapán rather than have it continue the final 200 kilometres from there to Mexico City. This is because this final section does not make for a good ride, as the landscape is much less interesting, developed, and trafficked as it approaches the capital. Entering or exiting Mexico City from the north is not a pleasant experience, as there are no good approaches, requiring you to cycle on very busy roads, often with no shoulder, surrounded by fast traffic.

My suggestion is therefore to take a bus between Zimapán and Mexico City. This is easily done via one of the larger coach-style buses provided by Ovnibus, which has multiple departures daily between Zimapán and Central del Norte bus station in Mexico City. You can simply remove your front wheel and store your bike in the underfloor luggage compartments. If you do choose to cycle this section instead, be very careful, especially when getting closer to the city.

• Wild Camping: Generally possible in the high mountains and desert. However, in the Sierra Gorda, flat ground is rare. Always stay hidden from the road.
• Simple hotel rooms (or posadas) are available in most towns for 300-500 pesos per night. If near a village or ranch, ask the Comisario or land owner. It is safer than hiding and often results in a safe place to sleep (church yard, school).

• Water: Tap water is generally not safe to drink. It’s best to filter everything or buy garrafones (purified water) in towns to fill your bottles.
• Resupply: You will pass convenience stores in just about every town, and even small villages will often have abarrotes (small general stores) that stock the basics. Fresh ingredients can be hard to find outside of the bigger towns, so it’s best to stock up when you can.
• The Diet: Expect eggs, beans, and tortillas for breakfast. Gorditas and tacos for lunch. Roasted chicken for dinner. Vegetarian options are somewhat limited to quesadillas and beans, but you can always cook your own food; it’s a good idea to bring a stove.

Due to the substantial elevation gain and the frequency of 1,000-metre climbs, rider pace on this route will vary significantly based on setup and fitness. A rigid day-by-day itinerary would likely be misleading for many bikepackers. Instead, the route is presented in four distinct geographical segments, allowing riders to adapt their daily mileage to the terrain and their recovery needs.

locationThe High Sierras (Monterrey to General Zaragoza)

Segment 1

The route offers little warm-up, climbing immediately out of Monterrey into the spectacular limestone peaks of the Sierra Madre Oriental. Expect challenging gradients, jagged mountains, and a string of charming, high-altitude towns. The riding here is world-class, defined by dramatic, rocky vistas and friendly locals. This section culminates at the turquoise waterfalls of General Zaragoza, a highlight of the entire route and a perfect reward for the initial effort.

locationThe Altiplano Transition (General Zaragoza to El Meco)

Segment 2

After reaching the pass out of Zaragoza, the landscape shifts dramatically as you enter the altiplano. This high-desert plateau is defined by forests of Joshua trees, intense sun, and potential headwinds. While less mountainous than the first leg, the exposure makes this a serious undertaking. The segment ends as you cross the watershed and descend into the lush, humid jungle of the Huasteca Potosina. The village of El Meco offers some of Mexico’s finest waterfalls and a crystal-clear river—an ideal spot for a rest day to swim and recover before the humidity kicks in.

locationThe Huasteca Potosina (El Meco to Jalpan)

Segment 3

El Meco marks the point where the desert is truly left behind. The environment here is vibrant and green, starting with relatively gentle riding through vast sugarcane plantations and past a series of stunning cascades. As you push south, the route becomes more remote and rugged, climbing back into the hills before dropping into the town of Jalpan de Serra, the primary resupply hub for the final leg.

locationThe Green Wall (Jalpan to Zimapán)

Segment 4

This section provides a fittingly dramatic conclusion to the journey. Leaving Jalpan, the route shoots straight up into the cloud forests of the Sierra Gorda, tackling some of the most significant climbs of the entire trip. The profile here is a sawtooth: steep ascents into the mist followed by sharp drops back to the valley floor. The ride concludes with a spectacular climb through a dry riverbed—reminiscent of a slot canyon—before the final push to the finish line in Zimapán.

Check out my 37-minute video detailing the entire adventure: