Raki Roads

The starting point of the Raki Roads bikepacking route is Berat, often referred to as the “City of a Thousand Windows” and renowned for its well-preserved Ottoman architecture. Starting there doesn’t allow for an extensive warm-up since there’s a steep climb and some hike-a-bike at the beginning, but after about half a mile, the enjoyment of the ride begins and you can fully immerse in seemingly endless dirt roads.

After the first mountain range, which provides a glimpse into what you can expect of the days to come, the route continues alongside Vjosa. The river is often referred to as the last remaining natural river in Europe, and with the assistance of the outdoor company Patagonia, it was turned into a national park. Despite ongoing efforts to protect the river, reoccurring plans for hydropower plants pose a threat to the fragile ecosystem, as does pollution, and plastic bags hang in the surrounding vegetation like ghosts.

The ride through the valley is the only stretch of asphalt worth mentioning. Luckily, car drivers tend to be quite considerate of cyclists. Përmet is the last town to pass before heading towards Fir of Hotovë-Dangëlli National Park and the backcountry. Due to poor roads, not many people make it far into Lengarica Canyon, which was carved by the river to form a narrow and breathtaking gorge. The climb out of Lengarica Canyon follows a stunningly scenic winding road which offers spectacular views of the endless backcountry. Expect slow progress, as the bad road conditions have turned the road more or less into singletrack. There are some trickling streams, but water flow probably depends on previous rain, and the next reliable source is a river in Pagri. Hence, filling up water tanks at the hydropower plant before the climb is highly recommended.

On Google Maps, I noticed a tiny cafe simply called “cafe” that had an astounding number of positive reviews and mouthwatering pictures. We had come to the unspoken agreement that we would not hesitate if the opportunity to indulge in Albanian delicacies presented itself. One particularly recommended is called Petulla, which is basically deep-fried dough that usually comes with honey. Petulla happened to be the specialty of the elderly lady who ran “cafe” while her aloof husband lingered around, a business strategy many Albanian culinary establishments seem to have adopted.

Breathtaking views into Osum Canyon provide the scenery for the ride to Çorovodë, a town that seemed to be made for tourists who never appeared. To climb out of Çorovodë, you’ll follow a smooth gravel road to one of the highest points of the tour. On the way down, the route passes a place called Gjerbës, essentially a village square surrounded by two restaurants and a convenience store. Sometimes, the previously mentioned elderly ladies spot you from afar and almost drag you into their establishments. One of the restaurants we couldn’t resist was called Restaurant Bar Gjerbës. Hospitality is an understatement when it comes to Albanians. We were treated to a three-course lunch and likely would have been offered any food we desired by the gracious host. This particular businesswoman even took it up a notch and runs an Instagram account, where she regularly posts pictures of her guests.

Navigation is straightforward except for one part where we were caught off guard as the gravel road we had been following ended in the bed of Tomorrica River. Be prepared to spend some time until you find the connection to the doubletrack on the other side. In summer, passing was easy; however, it might be more challenging after heavy rain or in spring.

For the last climb, you find yourself in Tomorr National Park. What starts as a straightforward climb develops into a steep and demanding one. The road is rideable, but be prepared for a strenuous finish. The descending road back to Berat is beautiful and provides the perfect opportunity to reflect on the ride.

Route development: Even though people bikepack through Albania, we didn’t find any existing routes that met our demands. As such, we scoured Google Maps for a region with an extensive network of gravel roads and enough reliable water sources to allow for a trip in summer. We made some minor adjustments while riding, but the route turned out to be spectacular and also established enough to be rideable and sustainable, as the dirt road are often essential connections between mountain villages.

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