Route of Caravans: Morocco Traverse (South)

Language Primer

by Evan Christenson

Paying attention and learning a bit of the local languages has been my most rewarding point of entry into the culture here in Morocco. So I wanted to write a few phrases down to help you begin your journey on bicycle here, and connect with the people you’re guaranteed to meet along the way. Learning someone else’s language is the easiest way to tell them you care, and are interested in their perspective. It opens people up immediately. It is always worth the effort.

First, an explainer. There are several languages spoken in Morocco, but they’re broken into two categories.

The main language, what most government dialogue is done in, what most of the signs are in, what most people speak between themselves in Derijah. It is a regional dialect of Arabic, but is very derivative. A Moroccan person cannot go to Lebanon, or Palestine, and speak and understand the Arabic spoken there. Derijah uses a lot of slang, some French and Spanish influence, some Amazigh, and is very fast. Arabic languages have over 12 million words in them. The conjugations are incredibly difficult to understand.

Then there are the indigenous languages. The indigenous people are called the Amazigh people. You may have heard the term “Berber” but as it’s derived from Barbarian, should be refrained from using. The Amazigh (pronounced ama-zeer) speak several dialects of Tamazight (pronounced Tamazeert). The most common one you’ll encounter is Tashelhaight. In the north they speak Tarifeit, and in the desert several other languages. We’ll focus on Tashelhaight.

In Morocco 90% of people speak Derijah. A lot of people also speak a Tamazight language. Most people are Amazigh, but Derijah is more popular, especially after the previous king mandated it and shut down Tamazight education in schools (which has since been undone). In the mountains, the main language is Tamazight. In the valleys and cities, the main language is Derijah. Sometimes in the mountains older people will not speak any Derijah. Most of the time in the cities you’ll only hear Derijah. Therefore, it’s important to know a little bit of both.

And re:French/English. French is the language of the colonizer and generally looked down on, but you will sometimes find it. Not always. English is now taught in schools and the youth will speak it. Some are really plugged into internet culture and memes and that’s always funny to hear. In the north you can find lots of Spanish speakers.

Confused yet? We’ll start with Derijah

Derijah

The introduction is a very important part of Moroccan culture. If this is all you learn, you’re fine. It’s a really fun interaction to master. And it’s almost always the same.

• Salam Alaykum – hello (literally, peace be upon you)
• Alaykum Salam – hello (and unto you peace)
• Labas? – how are you
• Kulshi mezyan, Labas aleek? – everything is fine, how are you?
• Hambdullah – thanks be to god

These words can be changed around, but they’re almost always mentioned. Also, aanya is a fun reply/question which just means “normal”.

*the kh is a very gutteral sound. Similar to Dutch. Practice makes perfect.

• Wakha – ok
• Shokran – thank you
• Brit – I want
• Britti – you want
• Pikkala – bicycle
• Ana karkeb pikkala – I am riding the bike
• Piste – a dirt road
• Trek – a road
• Trek Salama – travel with peace / go well / goodbye
• Kima britti- whatever you want
• Kima brit- whatever I want
• Nemshi – to go
• Brit nemshi le – I want to go to ___
• Bzef – add onto anything to say a lot/too much
• Shweya- a little
• Afak – please
• Marhaba – you are welcome
• Zween – nice/beautiful
• Sbaah al kheyr – good morning
• Sbaah al nord – (the reply^) good morning to you
• Lmaa – water
• Atay – tea
• Khobz – bread
• Zeit – olive oil
• Halib – milk
• Kawha – coffee (kawa kala is black coffee)
• Makla – food
• Bneen – delicious
• Brit nakol- I want to eat
• Brit nkheless – I want to pay
• Ana – I
• Nta – you
• Uhndi- I have
• Uhnduk – do you have?
• Mneen nta – where are you from?
• Ana mneen – I am from ___
• Mushy mushkill – no problem
• Marakhra – next time
• Sahabi- my friend
• Khoya – brother
• Wahid, jeuj, tlata, arbauw, khemsa – 1,2,3,4,5
• Schohn – hot
• Brrrt – cold
• Shutuh – rain
• Rrih- wind
• Shnaw meesick – what is your name?
• Smiti – my name is
• Nhulus – to pay
• Aadi – easy
• Sela – difficult
• Baid – far
• Kribe – close
• Nkheiyem fiha – a camping place
• Siyam – Ramadan
• Kee doowidsee nahark – how was your day?
• Kalb kabir- big heart (but means I like this a lot)

There are many blessings in the name of Allah to be used as words.

• Bismallah – when you get your food (thanks be to god)
• Laaouhn – when you say goodbye (May god protect you)
• Laafduck – to say thank you (May god give you health)
• Laa arhem walidi – to really say thank you (May god protect your parents)

A very easy way to get a smile and a handshake is to say “Talafarask” when you say goodbye to someone. It means take care of yourself in a very sincere manner. Take care of your heart and your health and your family. People always get a kick out of this. The reply is “Talafarask tentuh” which means you too. If you say it to a group, you say “Talafaraskom”

Tashelhaight

Now to move on to Tashelhaight, the language spoken in the mountains by the Amazigh people. When you ride through the Atlas, this is what you’ll find mostly. The alphabet is derived from Greek and is very different looking. It is also very regional. If you travel 300km the words are totally different and people won’t understand the things you’re trying to say. Therefore we’ll keep this short.

The introduction you use Salam alaykum as well, but instead of “labas” you say “metaneet?” And instead of replying with “mezyne” you reply “behayre”

• Salam Alaykum – hello (peace be upon you)
• Alaykum Salam – hello (and unto you peace)
• Metaneet – how are you (can shorten to “Ten-uh”)
• Behayr – good
• Am dakal – my friend
• Ihula – nice/beautiful
• Asameed – cold
• Ohulugh – tired
• Teerrmt – food
• Aghrohm – bread
• Aman – water
• Mays minj – what is your name?
• Tsh – eat
• Reergh – I want
• Estreet – do you want?
• Estreet ek awounouk? – do you want help? (Masculine)
• Estreet ekem awounouk – do you want help? (Feminine)
• Dheer – to go
• Eesd waha – can I ___
• Adorholgh – I will return
• Tsoueira – picture
• Daysa – a shepherd
• Keef keef – the same as
• Timinseween tesadayeen – good night
• Mate skardt – what are you doing?
• Menka stsdreet wasanuuk – how was your day?

Enjoy your ride, and your journey into these fascinating languages. The pronunciations are very hard, and have very different sounds than we’re used to with the Romantic/Germanic languages, but with practice you can get there. I hope you have a nice ride in Morocco. I hope you make someone smile.

Talafarask Sahabi ✌️

• Getting to the route start: There are regular bus lines that run the eastern corridor of Morocco. The 10 hour bus ride from Casablanca to Tiznit will cost you about 240 Dirham (65USD) via CTM, the largest bus line in Morocco (at the time of this writing). Busses will carry bikes on the roof or in the cargo hold. CTM charges 10dh per bike and up. Ours were still in boxes so they were stored underneath. Before booking, check with CTM to make sure that your bikes will be accomodated.
• Route changes: We started our route in Agadir, but our course was slightly botched. We mapped this version from Tiznit based on a goal to evolve this route. We used simple dirt, gravel, and B roads for the first workaround, so it should be fairly straightforward. However, we are also open to suggestions. There are two other changed connectors, so make sure to read the Route Development section above and see the green arrow icons on the map.
• When to ride: The best time to ride this route is in the early spring (Late-February/March/April) or in the fall. Southern Morocco gets very hot, but there is also snow-cover in the Atlas. So it was designed to be timed with the cooler late winter/early spring in the south and allow time for snow to melt in the mountains. We started at the beginning of April, which seemed almost perfect for spring in the very high mountains. Starting in March would be ideal.
• Direction to ride: As mentioned, the route was designed to be ridden from south to north and ultimately connect with the Altravesur in Spain to form a larger meta-route. The ROC could be ridden in from north to south as well. This would likely require an autumn start in the Atlas, however, this would make it slightly difficult to get to the start.
• Mechanicals: There aren’t many modern bike shops in Morocco outside the bigger cities. So be prepared. There are a lot of thorns and spines in the desert; we had 8 flats in 24 hours (some were due to faulty tubes); make sure you run tubeless and bring plenty of spares and patches.
• Hassles: The children in villages can be aggressive on occasion. They are notorious for grabbing the bike as you are moving, chasing you down, and occasionally throwing rocks. In my opinion, irresponsible tourists are at least partially responsible for this type of behavior. Handing out gifts to children promotes begging, discourages education, and ultimately hinders tourism and the local economy.
• Tire size: It is highly advisable to use plus-size tires on this route. You could get away with standard 2.1″ mountain bike tires, but you will likely be pushing in sand on several occasions. There are a lot of rough and chunky dirt roads as well as sand along the ROC. No, this route is not doable on a cross bike.
• Don’t forget: A Buff. It can get very dusty in the desert. Also, make  sure to have plenty of water storage capacity. We carried over 8 liters each through the Saharan section.

• There are guesthouses and auberges in Tiznit, Tafroute, Monsour, Zaouia Timguidcht, Tata, Foum Zguid, the flats of Iriki, Mhamid, in both Zagora and Agdz, Imilchil, as well as other small towns along the way.
• Expect to pay anywhere from $15-60, and up, depending on the location and your level of comfort.
• In the desert we were told it is OK to camp anywhere.
• There is an oasis near Tata with free camping; it’s marked on the map.
• There are also plenty of wild camping options. If you camp in an oasis, ask someone if it’s OK (if you happen to see anyone).
• There are plenty of lodging options around the Dades Gorge that are fairly inexpensive.
• In the Atlas, wild camping is available in the more remote sections, but it’s often tricky as much of the land is very arid and desolate.
• Wild camping is harder to come by near civilization as much of the land is farmed. We found a couple of places by asking local farmers. Most of the time they have no problem with it. Just make sure to stay out of the site of pesky children… they can be fairly exhausting in Morocco.

• The Moroccan people are incredibly hospitable. You will most likely be invited to a family meal at some point during your travels. Graciously accept the offers, as these experiences are likely to be the most rewarding of your entire trip.
• The three places where food and water are scarce are from Tiouadou and Imitek (40ish rugged miles), the desert section between Foum Zguid and Mhamid, and the massive climb from the Draa valley at Afra to the Oued Dades.
• We carried about 7-8 liters each in the Sahara. I would advise more if possible; consult the map and analyze the terrain based on your personal water needs.
• There is a small village in the hills below the escarpment around Lake Iriki that has water, but you will need to carry all of your food and water on that stretch.
• There are food options and shops in the larger cities and small shops in many areas between. Lentils and rice can be found in even the smallest of shops. Guests and non-guests alike can purchase inexpensive and hearty meals at auberges.
• Along the Oued Draa, water is ever present in the river, and there are plenty of wells all along the way too.
• There is very little food available from the end of Dades gorge until Imilchil. There are a couple of small villages with shops, and even a campground along the way, but in our experience they tend to be closed when you need them most.
• Alcool a Bruleer (for alcohol stoves) is best found in open markets, look for the guy selling gasoline. It can also be found at hardware stores. Best to bring your stove with you to show them what it’s for.

While the Route of Caravans can be ridden in either direction — and may even be a little more fun from north to south, where it would be trending downhill — it was designed to be ridden in the spring, from south to north, allowing the snow to melt in the High Atlas Mountains.

The Anti-Atlas (from Tiznit to the Sahara)

The Route of Caravans starts at La Source Bleu, an historic fountain in the old medina of Tiznit, a town of about 75,000 that’s known for its historic charm and Berber jewelry. From there, the route leaves the city and quickly finds its way into the country via tertiary roads and dirt tracks. As with many bikepacking trips, the first day will likely be one of the most difficult. Those words ring especially true on the Route of Caravans, as it quickly ascends from the coastal plain into the Anti-Atlas Mountains. As mentioned in the Route Development section above, the beginning of the route is largely unscouted. We took a very similar set of tracks from Agadir and met up with the route near mile 50. We’ve rerouted this section, because the geography looks a little more interesting and the new route is contains more unpaved roads. On day one, if you are very strong, you can get to the first marked campsite (wild camping). However, this would be a very big day of climbing. If you aren’t quite up to it, there are additional wild camping options several miles after a resupply in Anzi.

Note that once the route turns to dirt after Anzi, there is a particularly steep ascent and descent that goes over a lovely pass. However, if you are on a heavily laden bike and not interested in the scenery, you may choose to take the road around. See map for details.

After dropping down from the higher Anti-Atlas, the route meanders into the bustling town of Tafroute, the center of the southern Anti-Atlas. You may stay in town or find a camping spot just outside of town, where it joins a dirt road. This leads to the Painted Rocks, an art installation on the edge of town comprised of giant boulders covered in light blue paint. I didn’t think much of it until I saw the rocks… it’s definitely worth a look.

The next 15 miles dish out a hearty 3,000′ climb that eventually gives way to a long freewheel down the escarpment. There are two options you can take here. The ROC follows a lesser road that gives way to dirt and gravel, leading through Taghaout and continuing to Tizerkine. We later learned about this passage from other cyclists and opted to add it to this route. However, during our trip, we unknowingly took the alternate paved road through Vallee d’Ait Mansour, a beautiful oasis surrounded by dramatic red cliffs. However, this way is paved, more touristed, and requires a little jog north to rejoin the route and a final resupply, so we recommend staying onroute. From there, the road ebbs and flows before dropping the final escarpment to the edge of the Sahara.

The Sahara (Escarpment to Tagounite)

It then turns east on a 45km remote piste road that weaves through an amazing desert full of sculptural rock outcroppings. The dirt ends at an intersection with a tarmac road around mile 145 (km 235). So begins a 30+ mile stretch of pavement just before Imitek. Expect a couple towns and oasis scattered in between. There is likely a dirt option cutting some of this out by utilizing the track marked at mile 141 (km 227). However, we were completely out of water when we reached the road and it’s hard to discern whether this track connects via Google Earth. There are regular busses from Tata to Foum Zguid if needed. We also included an unscouted section as mentioned in the Route Development section. This begins at mile 192 (km 309).

The 90 mile section from Foum Zguid to Mhamid is real-deal desert riding. It starts as an unbelievably rough track full of embedded stones that shake you to your core. Luckily the terrain changes continuously. There are a few places where you can actually stumble onto nice singletrack carved out by camels and the occasional motorcycle. The smooth and serpentine gashes through the Martian-like surface are nice reprieves from the rocky doubletrack.

Eventually the road turns to sand, and it’s easier to stay on the northerly track that turns in to the flats of Lake Iriki. There, the track continues across the ancient salt lake and is marked only by the occasional cairn.

About 20 miles prior to the road split to Mhamid, the track skirts the edge of the main attraction, Erg Chigaga. Unfortunately we missed it, due to a massive dust storm that clouded visibility. Otherwise, it’s advisable to plan a night on the dunes.

The Draa Valley (Tagounite to Agdz)

The Oued Draa (river) flows from the High Atlas and erupts in a series of lush oases as it inches toward the desert, particularly between Zagora and Agdz. This segment follows a long dirt track that flows up river through the Draa Valley and meanders through a continuous wave of green palmeraies and oasis towns. It’s also known as the Kasbah Trail, named for the many bud-brick cities en route. This same route has been trodden for centuries by caravans from the Sahara.

This dirt road parallels a main road that is sometimes far out of site and, at other times, visible. This is an excellent way to reach more untapped villages, people, and landscapes in an otherwise touristed area.

Make sure to allow time to visit a few of the Kasbahs along the way, such as Zagora.

The Atlas Mountains (The Draa to Imilchil)

With snow capped peaks at over 4,000 meters, the High Atlas Range dominates the skyline for miles to its south. The ROC takes a fairly safe approach into the mountains. This segment was planned via local maps and advice from people we met along the way to create a route through the Dades gorge and over the eastern portion of the Atlas.

This quickly developing area still has a scattered reserve of sublimely beautiful riding options, but, as warned by a mountain bike guide we met, “There are plenty of dirt roads here, but you can’t go by the maps. They might show them as piste [in the legend], but they are paving as we speak. You might find a great dirt route, then come back the next year only to discover that it’s been tarred.” This section has a share of tarmac, especially on the initial ascent, but it’s good in that there is little to no traffic, and the section of dirt in the middle is dreamy. That said, we are open to finding options on the initial ascent, should something prove worthy to the route as a whole.

Route Options

If you are taking on the Route of Caravans on its own, Beni Mellal is a good place for an exit. There are plenty of interesting ways to get there, but the most obvious choice is about 1-2 days ride from Imilchil — 8 miles and 8,000′ of climbing (129km/2400mt). From Beni Mellal, you can get busses to Marrakesh, Fes, or Rabat.

Interested in a shortened desert version of the ROC? Agdz makes another easy exit point. There are direct busses to Ouarzazate, a fairly large city from where  you can catch a bus almost anywhere.