Beef with the Border

When to go

• While the route is rideable year-round, most campgrounds close during the winter months. For the best experience, plan your trip between April and October, when milder temperatures and longer daylight hours make for more enjoyable riding and simpler logistics.

Logistics

• The northeast starting point is at Nieuwe Statenzijl. The train station of Bad Nieuweschans is conveniently located 3.7 miles from this starting point, while the train station at Vlissingen is just 9.8 miles from the southwest starting point at Cadzand-Bad.
• The route can be ridden in either direction. Both clockwise and counterclockwise approaches work equally well, with no significant differences in difficulty, terrain, or logistics.
• An alternative route bypasses the industrial port area of Antwerp. Instead, it passes through the historic town of Hulst before rejoining the main route near Ossendrecht.

Dangers & Annoyances

• Watch out for ticks on the whole route, especially in forests and high grass.
• The pine processionary caterpillars in oak trees can be a nuisance during the summer months.
• Dogs are usually kept on a leash or behind a fence. That said, some designated areas allow dogs to be off-leash, so be prepared for occasional encounters along the route.
• Be courteous: Follow the road rules, slow down for hikers, share the trail, and don’t forget a friendly greeting as you pass—it’s part of the adventure.

What Bike

• A gravel bike with 40 mm tires and some easy gearing, especially for Limburg, is recommended.

• Wild camping is not permitted in Belgium, Germany, or the Netherlands.
• Bivy camping is possible at some spots in Belgium. Registration is required upon arrival and can be completed online.
• Small, family run farm campgrounds offer an excellent place to pitch your tent. Look for SRV campgrounds for an authentic and affordable camping experience.
• Natuurkampeerterreinen (nature campgrounds) are another excellent option. Access requires a membership card, which can typically be purchased upon arrival.
• Several NTKC campgrounds are located near the route and welcome bikepackers. NTKC is a members-only camping association. If no members are present, access to facilities is unavailable.

• Restaurants, cafés, and supermarkets are plentiful along the route, making it easy to find food throughout the trip.
• Water is rarely a concern. Free drinking water taps can be found at many train stations, and additional refill opportunities are available in most towns and villages along the way.
• Demarrage Coffee at Slenaken. Don’t forget to taste the Limburg vlaai, a sweet crumb pie, at this cyclist café.
• De IJskuip/Erve Kuiper at Noord Deurningen. Taste fresh ice-cream made from locally produced milk. Afterward, visit the museum dedicated to legendary Dutch cyclist Hennie Kuiper.

Suggested Itinerary

locationCadzand Bad – Bivakzone Stropersbos

Day 1 (106 km +246 m)

Starting in Cadzand-Bad, you may want to dust off your German, as this seaside town is a favorite vacation destination for German tourists. Before long, however, you’ll leave the crowds behind and enter the quiet landscapes of Zeeuws-Vlaanderen, the southernmost region of the Dutch province of Zeeland.

A mix of smooth gravel and dirt roads leads past the fortified towns of Sluis and Retranchement, whose origins date back to the seventeenth century. These strongholds played an important role during the Eighty Years’ War, when the Dutch fought for independence from the Spanish Crown.

Part of this section follows the Schipdonk Canal, which was constructed in the mid-nineteenth century after Belgium gained its independence from the Netherlands. Beyond the canal, the route winds through open farmland and vast agricultural landscapes where villages are few and far between.

The industrial town of Zelzate marks the first major resupply point, offering supermarkets, cafés, and other services before the route turns east toward the forests along the Belgian border. End the day at the Stropersbos bivy area, where you can pitch your tent for the night.

locationBivakzone Stropersbos – Chaam (‘t Beekdal)

Day 2 (135 km +532 m)

After a quiet night in the forest, the route continues along a straight dirt road atop a dike toward Nieuw Namen. Here, the Dutch-Belgian border cuts directly through the tiny village before continuing northeast toward the Scheldt River. Instead of following the border, however, the route turns east into the sprawling Port of Antwerp, winding through one of Europe’s largest industrial areas. At Fort Liefkenshoek, you’ll board DeWaterbus, a passenger ferry that carries cyclists across the Scheldt (Check the schedule beforehand).

While the Port of Antwerp is undeniably impressive in scale, it isn’t exactly what most riders picture when they think of bikepacking. Fortunately, the scenery soon changes. Near Ossendrecht, nature returns as the route enters De Kalmthoutse Heide National Park. Expect a few stretches of loose sand that may require some extra effort—or even a short hike-a-bike. If you need a break, Restaurant De Bosrust is a welcome stop before continuing toward Zundert, the birthplace of Vincent van Gogh.

Zundert also makes an excellent resupply stop, with several supermarkets and other amenities. After stocking up, take a short detour to the town square, where a sculpture of Vincent and his brother Theo stands in front of the Van Gogh Church. Vincent was baptized here, and his father served as the church’s minister, making it a place that played an important role during the artist’s early years.

Toward the end of the day, leave the route near Meerle and make your way to Nature Campsite ‘t Beekdal, just south of Chaam. With hot showers, laundry facilities, and a fully equipped communal kitchen, it’s an ideal place to recharge before another day on the bike.

locationChaam (‘t Beekdal) – Bergeijk (De Woeste Polder)

Day 3 (117 km +510 m)

Another long day in the saddle awaits, but it’s packed with memorable stops along the way. The highlight is the remarkable border town of Baarle-Nassau/Baarle-Hertog, home to one of the world’s most complex border arrangements. Even before reaching the town, you’ll pass several Belgian enclaves surrounded entirely by Dutch territory. This unusual patchwork of borders dates back to the Middle Ages, when a series of land agreements between local lords and dukes resulted in the intricate boundary that still exists today.

Remarkably, the border was never redrawn or simplified. As a result, houses, shops, and even cafés can straddle two countries, with the location of the front door determining their official nationality. The arrangement still has practical consequences today. During the COVID-19 pandemic, for example, residents on the Dutch side were subject to a nighttime curfew while those just across the border (literally next door) in Belgium were not.

Baarle makes an ideal coffee stop before the route heads back into the countryside. Beyond town, quiet farm roads give way to forest tracks and open heathlands, with a few sandy sections and short hike-a-bike stretches adding to the adventure. Along the way, you can stop at a reconstruction of the Dodendraad, the electrified fence erected during the First World War, or take a short detour to visit the Reuselse Kei, a 2,730-pound (1,240 kg) glacial boulder resting in the Peelse Heide nature reserve.

As evening approaches, treat yourself to dinner at Herberg In het Wilde Zwijn. Their traditional stamppot—mashed potatoes mixed with seasonal vegetables and served with smoked sausage—is a Dutch comfort-food classic. The rustic interior, filled with historical artifacts and old-world charm, is worth lingering over before continuing to Farm Campsite De Woeste Polder, a welcoming overnight stop just off the route.

locationBergeijk (De Woeste Polder) – Maastricht

Day 4 (107 km +483 m)

This section follows the winding border east before turning south along the banks of the Meuse River. Just beyond the forests of Hamont-Achel, you’ll pass another reconstruction of the Dodendraad (Wire of Death), the electrified fence that divided the Dutch-Belgian border during the First World War. Informative displays explain its construction, the smuggling it failed to stop, and its impact on local communities.

Farther along lies De Galgenberg, a former execution site where condemned criminals were hanged until the eighteenth century. Like many gallows hills, it occupies a prominent position in the landscape. Today, the setting is peaceful, although local legends still claim the hill is haunted.

Leave the ghosts behind and continue toward the broad waters of the Meuse. The route follows the river downstream to Maaseik, where you’ll cross onto a gravel track atop the flood dike. The surface is rough in places but soon improves, offering fast riding with wide views across the floodplain. Around midday, Berg aan de Maas makes an ideal stop for coffee before a short ferry ride back into Belgium.

On the opposite bank, quiet gravel roads wind through the villages of Geulle aan de Maas and Kotem. Just outside Kotem stands a Buffalo Mark IV tank, a poignant reminder of the Second World War. During the Ardennes Offensive in January 1945, it sank while attempting to cross the Meuse, taking its four-man crew with it.

End the day at Hoeve De Ploeg, or choose one of the many accommodation options in nearby Maastricht or Lanaken.

locationMaastricht – Vaals (Hoeve de Gastmolen)

Day 5 (69 km +1,099 m)

This is the route’s climbing stage. Leaving Hoeve De Ploeg behind, you’ll skirt the outskirts of Maastricht before following the Albert Canal south. Along the way, several World War II bunkers still bear the scars of battle. Near Visé, you’ll cross the Meuse for the final time before the rolling hills of South Limburg rise on the horizon.

The terrain quickly becomes rougher, with loose gravel and rocky tracks demanding more concentration. In return, you’ll experience some of the finest riding in the Netherlands, where wooded valleys, rolling meadows, and sweeping views replace the country’s familiar flatlands. A fast dirt descent leads into the village of Slenaken, where Demarrage Coffee is the perfect place to recharge with an espresso and a slice of traditional Limburgse vlaai.

From there, the route climbs steadily toward the Geul Valley. A short detour leads to the southernmost oak tree in the Netherlands, while the main route mixes flowing singletrack with a handful of gates that require a brief lift-over. The toughest climb of the day is Vijlenerbos, followed by the final ascent to the Drielandenpunt, the highest point of the entire route.

The Drielandenpunt is one of the region’s busiest attractions, so expect plenty of company. After taking in the views, descend to Hoeve de Gastmolen for the night. Nearby Vaals offers restaurants, cafés, supermarkets, and a bike shop should you need supplies or mechanical assistance.

locationVaals (Hoeve de Gastmolen) – Swalmen (Aan de Grens)

Day 1 (120 km +853 m)

Start this striking section by rejoining the route just across the German border. A winding singletrack climbs onto the Schneeberg ridge, offering sweeping views across the rolling hills of Limburg. Below the ridge stand the remains of a World War II Panzermauer, a concrete anti-tank barrier built to slow advancing armored vehicles. One of several anti-tank barriers that serve as reminders of the region’s turbulent past.

The route continues over quiet farm tracks and unpaved bike paths toward Herzogenrath. Near the hamlet of Orsbach, it briefly follows an overgrown footpath directly along the border. It’s only a few hundred yards long, so the short hike-a-bike is soon behind you.

From there, the route links together some of the finest natural areas along the Dutch-German border, including Teverener Heide, Wildpark Gangelt, and De Meinweg National Park. Near Teverener Heide, Geilenkirchen NATO Air Base occasionally announces its presence with fighter jets overhead, while farther along, Air Observation Tower 802, closely resembling a modern art sculpture, stands as a relic of the Cold War.

De Meinweg National Park is one of the scenic highlights of the route. Rough gravel roads wind through peaceful forests where deer and wild boar are often spotted. At the edge of the park stands Saint Ludwig, a former Franciscan monastery converted into a hotel, alongside a statue of Saint Louis of Toulouse, who famously renounced his claim to the throne to become a Franciscan friar.

End the day at Farm Campsite Aan de Grens, conveniently located on the route. Nearby, Herberg de Bos serves hearty meals, while several alternative campgrounds are available if you prefer a different overnight stop.

locationSwalmen (Aan de Grens) – Groesbeek (Het Smokkelpad)

Day 7 (114 km +592 m)

After yesterday’s climbs, today’s stage is all about flowing gravel and endless forests. Brachter Wald sets the tone immediately, with smooth “champagne” gravel alternating with rooty woodland trails all the way to the outskirts of Venlo.

The route skirts the eastern edge of Venlo Airfield before a short hike-a-bike along the perimeter fence of the nearby water treatment plant. The overgrown trail is only a few hundred yards long and soon gives way to easy riding once again.

Beyond Venlo, the forest returns. Fletcher Hotel-Restaurant, just outside Arcen, makes a convenient stop before the route enters De Hamert National Park and, shortly afterward, De Maasduinen National Park. Here, fast gravel roads wind through one of the Netherlands’ largest river dune landscapes. Once you leave the park, the supermarket in Siebengewald is the ideal place to restock.

The final miles climb onto the Reichswald, an imposing moraine ridge overlooking the surrounding countryside. A short detour leads to a well-preserved Celtic field system, while the main route passes a hidden World War II trench—easy to miss, as no signs mark its location.

Descend through the forest to Nature Campsite Het Smokkelpad, where a peaceful setting and spacious campsites provide the perfect end to one of the route’s finest days of riding.

locationGroesbeek (Het Smokkelpad) – Winterswijk (NTKC terrein Masterveld)

Day 8 (123 km +521 m)

The landscape changes once again as the route enters the Rhine delta. Over thousands of years, the Rhine carved its way through the moraine ridges of the Reichswald and Hochelten, creating the broad floodplains that now define this fertile farming region. A short ferry crossing at Millingen aan de Rijn brings you to the opposite bank, where the route passes through the riverside villages of Tolkamer and Lobith before following another branch of the Rhine.

Dominating the flat landscape is the tower of St. Vitus Church, visible from miles away. You’ll encounter the saint again later in the day in the form of an old border marker carved with his likeness. Once marking the boundary of Elten Abbey’s extensive lands, the stone is a reminder that this landscape was once divided by monasteries and feudal estates rather than modern national borders.

Continuing east, the autobahn near Elten marks today’s border crossing. Hidden in the woods behind the nearby gas station lie the remains of World War I trenches. They’re well worth a short walk, but leave your bike behind—this protected nature reserve is off-limits to cyclists.

Beyond ‘s-Heerenberg, the route crosses wide agricultural plains on quiet country lanes toward Anholt. Winterswijk is the only major town nearby, so Oeding, just across the German border, is a convenient place to stock up on food and supplies before the day ends.

Spend the night at NTKC Masterveld, a peaceful campground just off the route. Facilities are simple but well maintained, reflecting the club’s back-to-basics philosophy. One small tip: members refer to the site as a kampeerterrein (‘campground’), never a ’camping’—a distinction they take surprisingly seriously.

locationWinterswijk (NTKC terrein Masterveld) – Losser (Erve Beernink)

Day 9 (72 km +259 m)

By now, you’re well into the journey, making this a good day to slow the pace and take in the surroundings. The route meanders northwest toward Zwillbrocker Venn, a unique heathland reserve that is home to one of the northernmost breeding colonies of greater flamingos in Europe. Yes, flamingos—in Germany. Spend a little time watching these unexpected residents before heading into the village of Zwillbrock for coffee and a slice of Baumkuchen, the famous layered cake often referred to as Germany’s ‘tree cake’.

While you’re there, don’t miss the nearby Franciscan monastery. If the church happens to be open, step inside to admire its magnificent Baroque interior, one of the architectural highlights of the region.
A little farther along, GZG Ter Huurne, located between Den Braam and Alstätte, makes an excellent lunch stop. The complex combines a discount supermarket, several shops, and a popular restaurant that attracts visitors from both sides of the border. After hours of quiet gravel roads and secluded trails, arriving at such a lively place feels almost surreal. Chances are you’ll attract a few curious looks in your dusty cycling gear—though you’ll probably be just as intrigued by the crowds as they are by you.

Later in the afternoon, an unpaved bike path follows the Dinkel River into the town of Gronau. Housed in a former textile mill, the Rock’n’Pop Museum traces the history of popular music through interactive exhibits and an impressive collection of memorabilia. It’s one of Gronau’s biggest attractions and well worth a visit. If you’re planning to go inside, be sure to book your tickets in advance, as they often sell out.

The day ends at Camping Erve Beernink, a simple but welcoming farm campground offering excellent value. After a long day on the bike, the on-site laundry facilities are the perfect excuse to give both yourself and your cycling kit a well-deserved refresh.

locationLosser (Erve Beernink) – Radewijk (Grenszicht)

Day 10 (75 km +398 m)

The meandering Dinkel River sets the tone for today’s ride. After crossing into the Netherlands near Gronau, the river winds north through a peaceful landscape of meadows, woodlands, and traditional farms before eventually joining the Vecht. One highlight is Lutterzand, a beautiful nature reserve where the river has carved steep sandy banks beneath towering oak trees. Lutte Hutte, tucked away in the forest, is the perfect place to stop for coffee or lunch.

Beyond Lutterzand, a narrow tree-lined trail follows the remarkably straight Dutch-German border toward Nordhorn. Here you’ll ride the Commiezenpad, or ‘Customs Officers’ Path’. During the nineteenth century, retired soldiers were stationed along this isolated frontier to combat smuggling. When not patrolling the border, they sheltered in small, partially buried huts. One of the few surviving customs huts still stands beside the route near Denekamp.

A worthwhile detour awaits just outside Denekamp at De IJskuip / Erve Kuiper. Although it’s about a mile off route, cycling enthusiasts will appreciate the small museum dedicated to Dutch cycling legend Hennie Kuiper. Better known internationally for victories such as the Olympic road race in 1972, Paris-Roubaix in 1983, and the Tour of Flanders, Kuiper grew up on this very farm before launching one of the most successful careers in Dutch cycling. Even if professional racing isn’t your passion, the homemade ice cream, made with milk from the farm’s own cows, is reason enough to stop.

Beyond the museum, the moraine ridge around Ootmarsum introduces gentle climbing and some of the finest forest riding on the route. Flowing singletrack and quiet forest roads weave through the woods, although prolonged rain can leave sections muddy or flooded.

End the day at SVR Farm Campsite Grenszicht near Radewijk. Set in the tiny hamlet of Achterin—literally ‘at the back’—it’s a peaceful place to spend the night and offers excellent facilities for weary bikepackers.

locationRadewijk (Grenszicht) – Sellingen (De Slangenborg)

Day 11 (88.5 km +196 m)

The surrounding countryside is dotted with traditional Low Saxon farmhouses (Fachhallenhäuser), recognizable by their timber framing and distinctive wooden gables. Beyond Lutterzand, a narrow tree-lined trail follows the remarkably straight Dutch-German border along the Commiezenpad, or “Customs Officers’ Path.” During the nineteenth century, retired soldiers patrolled this isolated frontier to combat smuggling, sheltering in small, partially buried huts between shifts. One of the few surviving customs huts still stands beside the route near Denekamp.

Just outside Denekamp, a worthwhile detour leads to De IJskuip / Erve Kuiper. The small museum celebrates Dutch cycling legend Hennie Kuiper, who grew up on the farm before winning Olympic gold, Paris-Roubaix, and the Tour of Flanders. Even if racing history isn’t your thing, the homemade ice cream—made with milk from the farm’s own cows—is reason enough to stop.

Beyond the museum, the moraine ridge around Ootmarsum introduces gentle climbing and some of the finest forest riding on the route. Flowing singletrack and quiet forest roads weave through the woods, although prolonged rain can leave sections muddy or flooded.

End the day at SVR Farm Campsite Grenszicht near Radewijk. Set in the tiny hamlet of Achterin—literally “at the back”—it’s a peaceful place to spend the night with excellent facilities for weary bikepackers.

locationSellingen (De Slangenborg) – Nieuwe Statenzijl

Day 12 (38.6 km +54 m)

At last, the home stretch. Vast skies, endless farmland, and quiet roads define the province of Groningen, where life has always revolved around water. For centuries, frequent flooding forced communities to build their homes on artificial dwelling mounds known as terpen, shaping both the landscape and the people who call it home.

The route continues along the Ruiten Aa Canal on a smooth gravel path that hugs the waterway. If you’re ready for one final coffee stop, cross to the opposite bank at Veelerveen and visit Restaurant ‘t Moment. Housed in the village’s beautifully restored church and largely run by volunteers, it’s known for its excellent apple pie and warm hospitality. The historic interior has been carefully preserved, and the owners, Marianne and Hans, help keep both the building and the village’s history alive.

A mile or so beyond the village, the route leaves the canal for a stretch of unpaved road leading back toward the border. At the Veendijk, a rough farm track brings you to the Bellingwolde Redoubt. Today, it’s little more than a grassy earthwork, but during the Eighty Years’ War it formed part of the defensive line protecting the young Dutch Republic against Spanish forces advancing from the east.

The final miles pass through Bad Nieuweschans, now better known for its thermal spa than its former fortifications. If time allows, it’s the perfect place to soothe tired legs before the last stretch to the finish.

From there, a peaceful bike path follows the Westerwoldse Aa to the lock gates at Nieuwe Statenzijl. Here, Beef With The Border officially comes to an end, even though the actual border lies another 87 yards farther east. Take a moment to pause with a cup of coffee from the small local kiosk, look back on the miles you’ve ridden, and enjoy the quiet satisfaction of completing a remarkable journey along the edges of three countries.