Lemkivska Kobiouka

• There are a numerous river crossings (around 20). The rivers are mellow and shallow (mostly below bottom bracket deep), but after heavy rains they can increase their flow and forest tracks can turn into sticky mud.
• The best, most magical time to ride is first half of October, when the nature explodes with vibrant colors, from golden yellow to fiery red. Nevertheless every season has its charms. Spring with blossoming fruit trees, summer meadows covered with hundreds of wildflowers. Generally, it’s rideable from April to November.
• The area is inhabited by wolves and brown bears. The population is not very high and is mostly encountered in the Magurski National Park and east of it.
• Krynica-Zdrój is accessible by train from Kraków and there are several connections a day. The ride takes around four hours as the train twists around mountains. For timetable check rozklad-pkp.pl
• Iwonicz-Zdrój is 10-12km away from the train station Wróblik Szlachecki or Krosno, where you can catch trains to Kraków via Jasło and Rzeszów. However, it is more convenient to take a coach back to Kraków, there are regular connections operated by two companies: Neo Bus (neobus.pl) and Barabra Bus (barbara.net.pl). Before buying ticket, call first to make sure they can take your bike, as not every shuttle does.
• The course is mostly rideable and not very technical. It does contain a few steep but short uphills and downhills.
• About 90% of the route is rideable on a gravel bike, although it won’t be very comfortable. A monster-cross with low gearing or a mountain bike will work better.
• A paper map of the region is available in most kiosks in Krynica-Zdroj. The one made by Compass is highly recommend compass.krakow.pl
• MAPY.CZ is a good, free app for navigation
• The route could be shortened by 33 miles (53km). From camping site in “Źródliska Jasiołki,” instead of turning right into a trail climbing to the ridge, continue on the dirt road through the forest to the village of Moszczaniec. From there follow the green hiking trail to reconnect with original route.

• Wild camping in the forest is illegal. However, bivouacking in meadows is generally tolerated, just set up late and leave early, and absolutely #leavenotrace. Camping in the Magurski National Park is strictly forbidden.
• Hut in Nieznajowa has a basic lodging, no running water or electricity, you can also pitch your tent. Staying is free of charge in exchange for minor household chores. Open from May until the end of summer.
• There is a campground in the “Źródliska Jasiółki” nature preserve. There is a fire pit, a couple roofed picnic tables, and a pit toilet.
• The Chalet beyond Smolnik (Schronisko nad Smolnikiem) is a mountain lodge, which is full of conveniences. They serve warm meals, something cold to drink, a place on the floor to sleep or if you fancy a room with your own bathroom. About 50 metres from Schronisko there is a campsite available.
• Accommodation is possible in some villages along the route.

• You can get the water from mountain streams, but be sure to have a reliable filter.
• En route there are a couple basic convenience stores where resupply is possible.
• In Krynica-Zdrój and Wysowa-Zdrój (just 4km off the route) you can try traditional Lemko cuisine, “Karczma Łemkowska Kłynec” and “Gościnna Chata.” You can also enjoy a hearty meal of “warianka z pierohami” (sauerkraut soup with dumplings), “kiszenice” (cabbage rolls) or “zlepieńce” (dumplings).

The route starts in one of Poland’s oldest health resorts and spas, Krynica-Zdrój, famous for its mineral waters used for drinking therapy. From there the route explores bucolic valleys after the villages of Bieliczna, Regietów Wyżny, Radocyna, Czarne and Nieznajowa. The road winds among feral apple trees, graveyards, and stone crosses hidden in trees, silent witnesses of a life long past.

Traversing the Jaśliska Scenic Park, the route crosses the wildest and the most remote part of the course. Not too technical singletrack follows the main Carpathian ridge in beech backwoods, where you are likely to encounter wildlife: deer, roe, maybe a bear or wolf. These dense forests are also a safe haven for an extremely rare in lynx and a European wildcat. The trail drops from the ridge for a visit in the idyllic valley of the nature reserve “Źródliska Jasiołki” (springs of river Jasiółka), a wonderful place to spend a night and a morning stroll in a foggy peat bog.

Along the way, there is a small village Zyndranowa, where you can visit the open-air museum of Lemko Culture. It’s a modest museum located on an old, well-preserved farm, that includes traditional Lemko cottage “chyza,” containing the whole household, stable, and barn under one roof.

An inherent part of the Low Beskids scenery are crosses made from stone, iron, or wood on the side of a road or deep in the woods. They are memorials to Lemkos as well as after major battles of the First World War. Thousands of soldiers of different nationalities from opposing armies are buried side by side in numerous graveyards rambling the area. Some of the cemeteries are an impressive work of architecture, especially the ones designed by Dušan Jurkovič, which are heavily influenced by Lemko folk art and carpentry. Some of the most notable are cemeteries nr 46 in Konieczna and nr 51 on the Rotunda hill, both of which are en route.

The travel ends in the charming little health resort of Iwonicz-Zdrój, where you can soothe and regenerate your body after an exhausting journey in curative sulfide or moor mud baths.