Sage and Saddles: The Gunnison Bikepacking Loop

When to Go

• The access to this route is limited by snow in the high country that often lingers into July and can start to fall again as early as September. In most years, the route is passable from late June until October, though there may be a few stretches of snow to cross early in the season.
• The southern portion of the route traverses the breeding grounds of the endangered Gunnison Sage-Grouse and is closed to all human use from March 15 to May 15. This area is one of the last habitats for this beautiful and unique bird, and it’s important to respect this closure.
• The sun is no joke at these elevations, and the UV index in the area is often high. With long stretches of the route not having much shade, it’s important to have a good plan for sun protection. In addition to sunscreen, it’s advisable to have a sun shirt to protect your arms and neck and some way to keep the sun off of your face as much as possible.

Logistics

• Long-Term Parking: Western Colorado University has been gracious enough to let bikepackers park their cars in the University Center parking lot, just north of the signs that say “no overnight” parking (see “P” icon on map for details).
• Gunnison has a sizable regional airport, and a bus from Denver connects a few small mountain communities like Buena Vista, Salida, and Gunnison. They have a bike rack. More details can be found here.
• Central Colorado is a jeep and ATV haven, and the northern half of the route uses some roads that are very popular with the motorized crowd. Tin Cup and Taylor Park are hotspots for motorized use, and the roads can be dusty. Be aware that you’re sharing the road with these other users, and if possible, try to time your ride through the Taylor Park area on a weekday or as early in the morning as possible. Having a buff or bandana to pull over your mouth and nose when getting passed can help minimize the dust you breathe in.
• The weather in Colorado is notoriously fickle and can be severe. With the route’s elevation ranging from about 7,600 feet in Gunnison to more than 12,171 feet at Tin Cup Pass, it’s important to be ready for anything from scorching heat to snow to a thunderstorm. Afternoon electrical storms are common during the July and August monsoon season but can form at any time of year and time of day. It’s important to stay below treeline if there are electrical storms in the area. These storms generally form and move quickly and will often dissipate after brief and occasionally intense downpours and displays of lightning.
• While the route starts at a fairly reasonable elevation in Gunnison, it spends a significant amount of time much higher. Riding at elevation comes with its own set of challenges, especially for those who aren’t acclimatized. While for most people, riding at high altitude simply results in breathing harder and having to go slower, there are several serious issues that riders need to be aware of. Acute mountain sickness has symptoms including headache, nausea, and shortness of breath. If left untreated, it can develop into high altitude pulmonary edema, which has symptoms of fatigue, dyspnea, and dry cough and can be fatal when leaking lung capillaries result in fluid buildup in the lungs. High altitude cerebral edema results in the swelling of the brain and tends to only occur at very high altitudes. It’s important to understand the symptoms of altitude-related sickness and to go lower if you’re experiencing any of them. Staying well hydrated can help with riding at high altitudes.
• There are plenty of opportunities to see wildlife along this route. From the ground squirrels and chipmunks living in the sage to the moose you may encounter near Tin Cup Pass, it’s a good probability that there’s some sort of critter watching you at any given time. Most of the route is in bear country, and it’s important to have some a food storage plan. Hanging food from a tree at night is the easiest way to keep it protected from unwanted and curious visitors. Feeding and approaching wildlife is dangerous, and it’s important to observe from afar.
• Cell phone coverage is limited throughout most of the route, and carrying a backup satellite communicator is good safety precaution. The communities of Pitkin, Taylor Park, and Almont all have some cell coverage, and there are several options for connecting to Wi-Fi in restaurants. Cathedral Ranch Cabins also has limited internet access.
• Cattle ranching is prevalent throughout the route. Cows are generally uninterested in cyclists, but it’s a good idea to give them a wide berth if you pass them on the open road. It’s also critical to leave any gates as you found them, open or closed, to keep cattle corralled where they should be. Because of the presence of cattle, you’ll want to filter and/or treat any wild water that you gather on the route.
• On occasion, the road around Mirror Lake floods, making it impassable for vehicles. There is generally a small path around the flooded parts of the road that is possible to get a bike through. Don’t be tempted to take the game trails on the west side of the lake. It’s not worth it. Don’t ask us how we know.

What Bike

• With a variety of road surfaces and gradients, the best bike for the job is one that has relatively wide and durable tires for the rougher sections of the route but that can still roll efficiently along the smoother and faster gravel sections.
• An ATB or hardtail mountain bike, with or without front suspension, can handle the various challenges of the terrain without getting bogged down when it’s time to fly over rolling hills of sage.
• A bike suitable for a route like the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route would also be ideal for the Sage and Saddles.
• Tires wider than 2.0 inches are recommended, and tires ranging from 2.2 to 2.6 inches in width are ideal.

Bikefishing

• Sage and Saddles could make an excellent bike fishing route with some of the best trout waters in the state along the route. Right out of the gate it passes the Gunnison River and follows countless smaller creeks that are perfect for fly fishing. Those include the beautiful Cebolla Creek and Spring Creek.
• There’s no shortage of fly shops in Gunnison, Almont, Harmels, and elsewhere along the route.

• There are several established campgrounds both in the remote sections of the route and close to towns that are noted in the route GPX file.
• Cathedral Ranch Cabins offers on-site camping for a reasonable fee. This is a great option for the first night, providing camping, resupply, and side hike options all in one beautiful location.
• Most of the Sage and Saddles route travels over public BLM and Forest Service land that provides many wild camping options. When choosing a campsite, Leave No Trace practices ask people to select one that has already been impacted. Look for fire rings to indicate places where others have camped before.
• Respect private land. There are several stretches of road that are flanked by private ranches. Look for signs indicating when you are entering and leaving public land when choosing a place to camp, and pay attention to public land layers on whatever navigation apps you’re using to ensure you’re camping legally.
• There are plenty of hotel options in Gunnison (find suggestions here) and some lodging options in Almont, Harmels, and Pitkin.

• There are plenty of places in Gunnison to grab a cup of coffee, breakfast burrito, a pastry, or fuel to propel you down the trail. Tributary Coffee is a local favorite and Double Shot Cyclery serves up coffee and opens early. There are also a few other breakfast spots to choose from in town, including Back Country Cafe. Sherpa Cafe and The Dilly Deli are good lunch spots. You can find a list of recommended restaurants here.
• There is abundant wild water along this route that should be filtered and treated before drinking. Cattle ranching is common throughout the southern portion of the route, so it’s advisable to get water from as high of elevation as possible to minimize the chance of contamination. Some people may choose to both filter and chemically treat their water in ranching areas, though a filter will remove all bacteria from the water by itself. The mountains of the northern half of the route have clear and fast streams that provide good drinking water. While this water may appear clean, it’s always a good idea to filter wild water in the area before drinking.
• All towns on the route have good sources of drinking water. Most restaurants and convenience stores will have a spigot or sink where you can fill up bottles.
• There are several resupply points with varying stock on the route. Cathedral Ranch Cabins, Pitkin, St. Elmo, Tin Cup, Taylor Park, Harmels, and Almont all have reasonably well-stocked stores where snacks and meals can be procured. Note that all services in Tin Cup are closed after Labor Day weekend.
• The restaurant options on this route will ensure that you don’t go hungry. Pitkin, Tin Cup, Taylor Park, Harmels, and Almont all have reliable dine-in options, but check hours ahead of time. Staff shortages have led to limited operational hours for many mountain town establishments.
• The longest stretch of the route without resupply is the 66 miles between Cathedral Ranch Cabins and Pitkin.
• High Alpine Brewing Company is a great final stop on the Sage and Saddles. Located on Main Street with a second-floor outdoor patio, it offers great beer, food, and an opportunity to watch the going ons in Gunnison while reminiscing about the ride. The Dive on Tomichi Avenue is another great option.

This route can be ridden fairly comfortably in five days, averaging just under 50 miles a day. The early miles of the route south out of Gunnison are fast and relatively easy before heading upward and into the mountains. The first half of the route has fewer resupply points and water sources, and the faster miles make it easier to make it between these locations without having to stock up on supplies. While the southern portion of Sage and Saddles traverses a high-desert sage landscape that can be hot, windy, and sun-exposed, the second half takes on a notably different character with high mountain passes, alpine lakes, and an abundance of wildlife.

location Gunnison to Cathedral Ranch Cabins

Day 1 (50.8 miles, 4,600 feet)

Heading south out of Gunnison, the route passes through Hartman Rocks, a popular mountain biking area, and climbs up the infamous Kill Hill, one of the steeper stretches on the route. Alternatively, it’s possible to take a relatively cruisey singletrack climb up Jacks to gain the top of the hill. Climbing and descending a series of hills throughout the sea of sage, the route makes its way generally southward, staying high above the Aberdeen Quarry, an abandoned granite quarry, before dropping down to the aptly named Willow Creek. This is an easy turn to miss in the middle of a fast downhill, so keep an eye on your GPS. The road surface deteriorates some on the climb back up to Highway 149, but willows along the creek provide some relief from the sun. Once on 149, it’s not a long stretch of pavement before starting up Cebolla Creek on the way to Powderhorn and then onto Cathedral. There are a couple of nice Forest Service campsites along this road, but most will want to push on to Cathedral Ranch Cabins for the night, an oasis of snacks, water, and shelter in an otherwise remote corner of Colorado.

location Cathedral Cabins to Waunita Pass

Day 2 (68 miles, 4,700 feet)

From the Cathedral Ranch Cabins, the route turns northward and heads over Los Pinos pass. It’s a gentle climb up to 10,509 feet, traversing through open meadows and beautiful aspen groves. This is the last shade for a while as a fast descent down the backside goes straight into the exposed sage country where trees are scarce and cattle abundant. Unless you’ve stocked up on a day’s worth of water at Cathedral Cabins, you’ll want to fill up as high on the pass as possible to minimize the level of cow contamination. The wide-open road trends downhill and is a fast, smooth surface. It’s also part of one of the Colorado Trail’s Wilderness Detours. There is water available at the intersection of county roads 14KK and 14FF, but it comes from the Dome Lakes, which provide water for cattle. It’s water, but it’s not great. Crossing Highway 114, the route then uses part of the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route to head north to Highway 50 on a series of rolling hills. North of Highway 50, the road is flanked by private property for several miles as it climbs toward Waunita Hot Springs. There are camping options by Hot Springs Reservoir and some questionable water around. The reservoir is often empty, and the water isn’t great, but just past the reservoir, there is a small roadside spring that provides passable water if needed. Past Waunita Hot Springs, the route crosses back into public land, and there are a few scattered camping options. Once on Waunita Pass, the road follows a small creek, which is probably the best water of the day. There aren’t many camping options available on the actual climb, which starts in the sage and ends in the pines, but a large clearing at the top provides ample room for several tents, and most importantly, sets you up for breakfast in Pitkin the next morning. At 66 miles, this is the longest stretch of the route without resupply.

location Waunita Pass to Tin Cup Pass Road

Day 3 – (30 miles, 4,000 feet)

While there are some embedded rocks in the road down to Pitkin to contend with, it’s a fun and fast descent to the small town. There are a couple of restaurant options, including the Stumbling Moose, which is mostly a bar but also serves up a delicious breakfast, including coffee and cinnamon rolls. The Silver Plume General Store at the north end of town has everything needed for a resupply, and the food cart in the back is a great option for lunch. Climbing along the old South Park railroad line, the route makes its way up past small mountain streams and waterfalls toward the famous and long-defunct Alpine Tunnel. Construction of the tunnel by the Denver South Park and Pacific Company started in January of 1880 and encountered many delays. It didn’t get completed until July 1882. By the time it was finished, the Rio Grande Railroad had already constructed a line over Marshall Pass, and the Alpine Tunnel route never received the level of use it was planned for and collapsed not long after. The road is often narrow and is popular with the motorized crowd, so stay alert. Turn off from the main route toward Williams Pass before reaching the collapsed entrance of the tunnel. Expect some sections of hike-a-bike as you make your way upward. Not only is this pass beautiful in its own right, but it’s closed to all motorized use for all months of the year except for August. Road quality improves greatly once down the other side to Hancock, a historic ghost mining town. There is camping available here, though it does see a lot of vehicle traffic and car campers. Just another five miles gets you to St. Elmo for another resupply opportunity before heading up the occasionally steep Tin Cup Pass road toward the high point of the route. There is copious camping along this road once outside of St. Elmo. If stopping for the night along this road before going over Tin Cup Pass, the Continental Divide Trail crossing is your last option for below-treeline camping and has several beautiful options for tents.

location Tin Cup Pass to Rocky Brook Road Summit

Day 4 (36 miles, 3,900 feet)

The road up to Tin Cup Pass, the high point of the route at 12,171 feet, is rocky, steep in places, and absolutely stunning. If you find yourself struggling with the elevation or gradient, just take a moment to pause and take in your surroundings. A snow plug exists at the top of this road until late June most years, but while it stops vehicle traffic, it is generally safely navigable with a bike. A seemingly endless descent will take you past the aptly named Mirror Lake and into Tin Cup, a quirky small town well worth a stop. For food, Frenchy’s serves up standard American fare of burgers, fries, and more. The restaurant has a rich history dating back to 1879 when Napoleon Perraut, aka “Frenchy,” showed up to town to serve whiskey in tin cups for 15 cents a shot. From Tin Cup, climb up Slaughterhouse Gulch and descend into Union Park, a wide expanse of sage surrounded by big mountains. The descent into Union Park is the roughest of the route and is loose and steep. A small “bump” of a hill going over a pass takes the route into Taylor Park, the heartland for ATVs in Colorado. Enjoy the people-watching while resupplying at the Taylor Park Trading Post. You can also get a meal at the Nugget Cafe. The following nine miles along the Taylor River Road to the base of Rocky Brook Road are arguably the emotional crux of the route. The area receives heavy motorized use, and this road is best ridden before 10 a.m. on a weekday. Having a buff or bandana to pull over your mouth and nose to mitigate dust inhalation is a good idea. In contrast, Rocky Brook Road is relatively quiet, climbs into the pines, and is a welcome relief. There are a handful of camping options near the top of the pass before it drops into Spring Creek Canyon on the other side. Campsites abound as the road drops past Spring Creek Reservoir, and plenty of water is around.

location Rocky Brook Road Summit to Gunnison

Day 5 (46 miles, 3,700 feet)

The landscape once again starts to change drastically as the route drops elevation from the top of Rocky Brook Road back down toward sage country. Spring Creek Road is a delight, mostly downhill, and turns to pavement just before reaching Harmels on the Taylor. The ranch resort has a coffee shop open 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. every day and a restaurant with limited days and hours. They also rent cabins for the night. The pastries from the coffee shop are not to be missed. While it may be tempting to stay on pavement all the way back to Gunnison from here, some of the best riding of the route is just coming up. Climbing up Jack’s Cut-Off, the route gains access to the Almont Triangle. Often considered a no-man’s land between the mountain biking and wildflower hotspot of Crested Butte and Gunnison, the roads of the Triangle traverse beautiful meadows that are home to large herds of deer and elk. This area is closed to public use from November 22 to May 15 to protect the big game and the Gunnison Sage-Grouse. A series of bippity-boo-baps (small rollers) take you to the final descent to Highway 135 and a quick coast to Almont. For a tiny community of people, Almont has some surprising amenities such as Blue Sky Mercantile, a health-food store with some tasty food options, including fruits and vegetables. Meals are available at the Three Rivers Smokehouse, which is open seven days a week. The final climb of the route out of the back of Three Rivers Resort is a doozy, climbing 2,200 feet in just seven miles, but the views from the top make the effort worth it, as does the traverse through giant aspen groves and then the ripping descent down Lost Canyon back into Gunnison. It’s highly recommended to end your ride at the Gunnison Brewery, which has convenient bike parking right by the front door.

Watch the video we made during the final scouting trip here: