Singletrack/MTB
Gravel/All-road
Dirt-road Touring
Fat-bike
The Lezyne Dunoon Dirt Dash is a self-supported bikepacking experience that takes place over two days amid the amazing scenery of Scotland’s Cowal Peninsula. Read on for a recap from Brett Cotter, one of the participants, and a selection of photos from Markus Stitz, the event’s founder…
Words by Brett Cotter, photos by Markus Stitz
The three necessities for an adventure are as follows: 1. someone willing to have fun, 2. something to pedal, and, 3. a place on Earth to ride.
My name is Brett Cotter, and in full disclosure, I’m not the fastest or most skilled rider, but I have a love and passion for “all things bike” and where they take us physically and metaphorically. I organize a film festival called The Big Bike Film Night, which tours extensively across New Zealand, Australia, and that wee gem of a country called Scotland (how we got to be showing our film fest there is a tale in its own right), and that’s is where this story takes place.
With a gap in my tour calendar, just before the start of the Scottish screenings, and having secured a Deviate Highlander II mountain bike as a loaner for a month, all I had to do was figure out where I was going to ride (I was suffering from Scottish sensory overload; too many options).
Having been subscribed to Markus Stitz’s Bikepacking Scotland email newsletter for some time, I enjoyed reading about the various events he organizes, and when the announcement that the Lezyne Dunoon Dirt Dash (DDD) would be taking place over September 21/22 came out, that was it. This was the ride and event I wanted to do.
Background on the DDD: it is a self-supported bikepacking weekend organized by Markus Stitz offering an exciting backcountry route over 137 kilometres with 2,350 metres of climbing and gnarly descents. A stunning campsite location at Carrick Farm awaits participants at the end of day one, just a stone’s throw from the historic Carrick Castle, along with cooked dinner and breakfast the next morning.
I knew absolutely nothing about the surrounding region, affectionately called Scotland’s “Adventure Coast” or the route where we would be riding through, but the unknown is part of the thrill. This would open a window for me to a part of Scotland that I knew very very little about. All the participants had to be self-reliant with their own camping gear, lights, water and snacks, wet-weather gear, tools, and first-aid kit for the two days of riding.
Dunoon is a small town on the shores of the Cowal Peninsula. To get to the start line at the Argyll Hotel in Dunoon, most riders boarded a ferry that crosses the bay from Gourock. Glasgow, Scotland’s largest city, is an easy drive/train/bike trip to Gourock, making the peninsula a popular destination for adventure and outdoor enthusiasts.
After settling into my accommodation in Dunoon on Friday afternoon, a quick visit to the local supermarket was top of mind, stocking up on certain necessities including muesli bars, snacks, and a handy tick removing kit for the wonder that is SMIDGE (the terror ticks I’d only heard about and yet to experience). Afterwards, I took off riding south along the coastline to the Innellan pub, where some essential carb loading took place, and then returned to Dunoon for a good night’s sleep.
Saturday morning was overcast, but that didn’t dull the level of excitement as the riders slowly congregated at the Argyll Hotel, loading up on caffeine, kicking tyres, and inspecting everyone’s steeds. There was plenty of good banter and amusement going around. “We know who’s going to be the fastest downhill,” with jealous eyes on someone’s Deviate Highlander II.
Everyone was stoked for the event, waiting to hear the introduction and induction from Markus of where we were going to be riding and what the two days held ahead. This is the third rendition of the DDD and the route was “fine-tuned” for this year’s edition, which was downloadable via Komoot, the event’s official route sponsor. Markus broke the route down into two individual days, but it was up to us to navigate our way, whether we had a phone, Garmin, Wahoo, or smartwatch, to the campsite on the first day, and then onto the Argyll Hotel the next day using a different route.
After a mass start, the participants slowly thinned out as we weaved our way up through the skinny streets of Dunoon to the hills and forests above the township, complete with outstanding views down over the peninsula. I started chatting and riding with James, who made the trip up from North Wales to participate. He had a Sonder Broken Road Pinion, which he found perfect for the trip.
The first day provided so much inspiration with a great mix of chatting with fellow riders along the singletrack, gravel tracks, forestry roads, and quiet roads. Having a Kiwi accent was an easy conversation starter, and I had people constantly ask me if I had travelled from New Zealand specifically for this. “You bet,” I responded. Fifty kilometres into the ride, the eagerly anticipated Blairmore Café was spotted, next to the Blairmore Pier on the shore of Loch Long there were bikes strewn and scattered around the front lawn, as riders stood patiently waiting for their orders and for delicious home-baked goodies and fresh coffee to be handed over. The staff knew about the event, but you could tell by their look of bewilderment that they weren’t prepared for the waves of hungry and thirsty cyclists.
On the final descent to Loch Goil, our destination, the campsite with the imposing and dramatic lochside 14th-century Carrick Castle came into view. Nestled beside the Loch, the castle made a spectacular site to ride towards. After setting up our tents, there weren’t too many people keen to jump in the Loch and have a swim, but I braved the cold temperature and relished the view out over the Loch. Dinner was ready when I got back, and there was a good selection of cold drinks available for those who wanted them.
The next morning, we packed up our bikes before breakfast was served. James and I set off for the 73-kilometer return to Dunoon with the first five being a gentle ride alongside the Loch before a tough gravel climb. The road spun its way up with numerous breathtaking views before rolling back down and across Loch Goil. More climbing at Hell’s Glen, which is officially named “Glen Iarainn,” which in Gaelic means “the Iron Glen,” but sounds like the nearby Glen Ifhrinn which means “the Glen of Hell.” A fast descent from the top of the hill meant we were down at Loch Fyne in no time, and as we rode along the gravel paths I found a supply of blackberry bushes to feast on.
The constant change of scenery was a joy to behold as we rode from the small village of Strachur to the final hill climb up an old forestry road that ran parallel to Loch Eck. We were treated to some world-class scenery. I let gravity take over on a massive descent, missing the essential turnoff, leaving James behind, ending on the main highway. I decided to ride back up the 20-percent gradient to find the turnoff and continue by myself, luckily finding some other riders to join and chat with.
From there, we passed through a beautiful woodland area on the outskirts of the Benmore Botanical Garden. The row of giant sequoias that reminded me of a glen of redwoods in my hometown of Taupō, New Zealand. I was beginning to run out of juice during the last section of road. I was relieved to see the road sign to Dunoon as we hugged the coastline before the Argyll Hotel.
At the hotel, it was exciting to catch up with fellow riders, now newfound friends, and hear their stories and experiences. I quickly said goodbye to my riding buddy, James, who had to gotten in ahead of me and now had to dash to a ferry to return home to North Wales.
I can’t say enough about the Dunoon Dirt Dash and the route we followed. It offers so much for riders of all abilities and is a perfect weekend adventure to fill your soul. You’ll be invigorated by the wonders of the Cowal Peninsula and come away buzzing with new experiences and new friendships formed.
Further Reading
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