Real Good, Feel Good: A Slow Coast qathet Story

Written in collaboration with Emily Heron, additional photos by Nathan Reimer

On the final morning of Slow Coast qathet, most of the group gathered on the rocky shore just down from our group campsite at Shingle Beach on Texada Island. With stunning views of Lasqueti Island and the Strait of Georgia, we asked some group members what “slow” means to them. While everyone’s answers were different, some commonality was refreshing to hear in an industry that often values speed and distance over everything else. Now that the weekend is over and we’ve had some time to think about our goals and priorities for the event, we both agree the only thing missing is more of it.

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Last winter, Emily and I found ourselves in Tucson, Arizona, during Sarah Swallow’s Sky Islands Adventure Ride and Speaker Series. Aside from riding bikes with new friends in a beautiful corner of the world, we had little understanding of the purpose or even what Sarah’s main event, Ruta del Jefe, was all about. We didn’t expect the speaker series to leave such an impression on us that we would begin dreaming up an event of our own. Hearing from advocacy groups like Borderlands Restoration, Indivisible Tohono, No More Deaths, Sky Islands Alliance, and Patagonia Alliance was eye-opening on many levels. Living so far north of the US/Mexico border means we’ve lived mostly unaware of all the complexities and issues arising from constructing a border wall. The effects of an imaginary border are expansive and troubling, and it was interesting to see where cyclists fit into the story and what we could do to help—educating ourselves was just the first step.

On our way home, Emily and I discussed opportunities to bring a similar experience to the Pacific Northwest. While we don’t feel the struggles of living close to a border, British Columbia has unique challenges and projects that affect how we recreate on the land and our understanding of it. The qathet Regional District has a long and complicated history with logging, and while we’re no experts, it’s impossible to ignore. Many of our daily rides and all of the published bikepacking routes in the area incorporate the maze of accessible logging roads to some degree. Moving to qathet has forced us to confront our relationship between land access, industry, and colonization. Emily decided she would bring a bikepacking event centered around intention and advocacy to BC’s Sunshine Coast, and between podcasts, we got busy brainstorming potential names. Somewhere between Arizona and British Columbia, Slow Coast was born.

Movers and Shakers

When discussing advocacy and conservation, it’s easy to get stuck in this vortex of never-ending hopelessness. I’ve been to my fair share of local presentations and discussions here in qathet, and more often than not, I would leave with the feeling that I wasn’t entirely sure what my role was or there was no hope. Yes, having such conversations is complicated and awkward at times, but Emily and I both agreed we wanted participants of our event to leave feeling inspired and informed rather than defeated.

In qathet, opportunities for these conversations are hard to miss. I can hear logging trucks hauling freshly cut trees at the desk I’m writing from. The Tla’amin First Nation peoples, who were pushed out of their village to make room for industry, now live north of town, between tiskʷat (Townsite) and the village of Lund, and they’re fighting to reclaim their land and culture. Several local wildlife conservation projects are in progress, the local cycling association is doing its part to work toward reconciliation with Tla’amin, and many local advocacy groups are pushing for real, tangible change. Our goal for the event was to introduce some of these projects to the attendees and hopefully learn—with the help of experts—what our role as cyclists looks like.

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Slow Coast qathet started with a panel discussion and presentation night at our local outdoor gear consignment store, Gear Attic qathet. We had four presenters: Patrick Lucas from the Indigenous Youth MTB Program, Susan MacKay from Wild Ocean Whale Society, Lisa Moffatt of The Name Matters, and Aimee Mitchell from Coastal Partners in Conservation. Each presenter provided a detailed snapshot of the work their organizations do, what brings them hope, and what we, as cyclists, can do to make a small difference. A sizable chunk of each participant’s registration fee was donated back to these groups, allowing us to donate over $2,000 to among them. We hoped everyone left with a greater understanding of the area we were about to bikepack in.

Patrick Lucas: Indigenous Youth Mountain Bike Program

Patrick joined us from Comox, Vancouver Island, and shared his story on how the Indigenous Youth Mountain Bike Program (IYMBP) was formed. The IYMBP is a group of community activists, leaders, and trail builders who work with Indigenous communities to train youth to build trails. Through his charismatic storytelling, Patrick shared his experiences of re-evaluating his expectations, exploring what it means to be a non-Indigenous settler living on Indigenous land, and listening to the communities he approaches. Patrick and the IYMBP are great examples of the cycling industry taking small steps toward reconciliation.

Susan MacKay: Wild Ocean Whale Society

Susan is the Founder and Director of Wild Ocean Whale Society (WOWs), a registered BC charity whose focus is raising public awareness, enthusiasm, and respect for the protection and well-being of coastal wildlife and marine ecosystems. Susan shared her years of knowledge and experience about local whale populations and her passion and love for the ocean shone through. A major component of WOWs is their Sightings & Reports Map, which helps monitor our oceans’ health and the species within. Though we weren’t fortunate enough to catch any whale sightings on our morning ferry to Texada Island, Susan excitedly texted Emily the afternoon following the presentation night, reporting multiple humpback sightings from the ferry terminal.

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Lisa Moffatt: The Name Matters

The Name Matters is a team of Tla’amin and non-Tla’amin volunteers who advocate for the use of respectful and inclusive place names in Tla’amin territory. Lisa is a passionate and knowledgeable volunteer with the group and kindly shared more on The Name Matters’ initiatives before a night of karaoke. The Name Matters has tirelessly worked since its grassroots formation in 2021 to educate and promote a more respectful and inclusive community. A key focus of Lisa’s presentation was providing background and updates to the Tla’amin Nation’s request for a City name change and the work The Name Matters has been doing to educate, listen, and advocate. The city’s current name reflects a man whose main goal was to assimilate Indigenous people. One powerful takeaway from her talk was that this process is not meant to erase the past but to create a brighter future.

Aimee Mitchell: Coastal Partners in Conservation Society

Perhaps the sweetest part of our presentation night was the box of baby Western Painted Turtles we gently passed around as Aimee Mitchell, the Executive Director for Coastal Partners in Conservation Society (CPCS) and the Project Manager of the Coastal Painted Turtle Project, spoke of their releasing plans on Texada Island the following day. CPCS is a team of dedicated biologists specializing in conservation through research, public outreach, and habitat restoration in coastal British Columbia. Their Coastal Painted Turtle Project assesses and works to protect the current status of endangered Western Painted Turtle populations, previously only known in a few locations throughout coastal BC.

There are No Bears on Texada

Emily and I had a few potential routes in mind for the Slow Coast campout but landed on Texada Island for various reasons. First, there are no bears on Texada. The only predators are bald eagles, raccoons, and humans, which is highly unusual for British Columbia. We’ve ridden the Texada Ridge Runner route many times, sometimes solo, and there’s something nice about bikepacking knowing a curious black bear isn’t going to wander into your camp at night. This seemed like the obvious location for a fun and inclusive group overnighter.

The other option was to ride the 10 Lakes Overnighter loop, another stunning route with many opportunities to swim, but it sees far more traffic and can often be dusty after a summer of logging. However, it would have provided the perfect backdrop to talk about the forestry industry, as the route passes by countless cut blocks and active logging areas and provides access to the Eldred Valley, home to some of the last remaining old-growth forests in the region. Without logging, the gravel roads that both routes follow likely wouldn’t exist, but seeing the destructive power of modern logging practices makes you wonder if it’s worth it.

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We chose Texada because the route sees far less traffic, the roads are always in fantastic condition, and we could reserve two large group sites at Shingle Beach. The overnighter started with a dreamy ferry ride across the Strait of Georgia, landing at the northernmost end of the island in Blubber Bay. We worked in several regroup spots on the route to slow the pace and keep folks riding together as much as possible. The first was in Van Anda at Mary Mary Café. We’d pre-purchased homemade muffins for everyone, and it was a great first stop that set the tone for the rest of the weekend. Our second meetup point was after the long gravel climb up to Bob’s Lake, the ride’s high point. The group split between the north and south sides of the lake, spending well over an hour swimming, snacking, and getting to know each other. Emily and I usually stop here for a quick bite before continuing to camp, so it was refreshing to jump into swimsuits (or not) and take an extended break with no real pressure to move quickly.

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Cyanotypes and Flowerstones

Slow Coast wouldn’t have been possible without help from our good friends Natalie, Sue, and Tom, who helped us make nearly 100 burritos for the group and had camp set up for our arrival. We were so happy to have Natalie’s expert organization and overall positive attitude as a part of the weekend, and we felt grateful to be able to spend some quality time together. Natalie grew up on Texada Island, and we endlessly credit her for introducing us to the area. It was special to be able to share this weekend with her. Natalie’s Dad, Rick, was so excited to hear about all the cyclists gathering on Texada that he drove out to see the crowd. That evening, he heroically volunteered to rescue our friend from a wrong turn down a demanding hike-a-bike section out of Anderson Bay.

Another friend and artist-in-residence, Lauren Everall, also played an important role. Before the weekend, Lauren prepared “Cyanotype Adventure Kits” for all the participants. A cyanotype is one of the oldest photographic methods used in the mid-19th century to reproduce photographs, documents, and maps. The process requires paper to be treated with a cyanotype mixture, creating a UV-sensitive canvas. While there are different forms of cyanotypes, we used rocks, flora, and other beachside finds to create a unique one-to-one print, laying items on the paper in the shade, exposing it to light for around 15 minutes, and then submerging the paper in the water to set the print.

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I’m generally not the one to whip out a watercolor kit or sketchbook while bikepacking, but creating cyanotypes was the perfect project to pair with Slow Coast. Not only was it something to do at camp or during longer breaks, but the simple act of gathering natural items for the print lent itself nicely to learning about and respecting place and land. I can’t remember the last time I simply walked along the beach looking for the perfect rock or strand of seaweed. Using the sun’s UV rays to initiate the print and the ocean to set it was delightfully circular. Lauren mentioned how she likes to include the coordinates from where she made each cyanotype and the names of the items on the print. I could see myself continuing to create them, offering a unique snapshot of a bikepacking trip that looks incredible on display at home thanks to their delightful shades of Prussian blue.

Creating cyanotypes allowed for opportunities for discovery and connection. During the UV exposure time, there wasn’t much else to do but wait. Some folks gathered for snacks, others continued walking the beach, and it wasn’t uncommon to see people sitting next to their cyanotype in silence. During one of these lulls, Savannah, a local attendee, held up a peculiar-looking rock with a distinct flower pattern. Flowerstone is a unique rock with feldspar crystals that create a flower or snowflake pattern and only found in some places of coastal British Columbia and Japan. Texada Island used to be known for its supply, but there is a moratorium on mining it.

Emily and I had a few leftover cyanotype papers from the weekend and brought them along on our most recent overnighter as something to do together at camp. We framed our Slow Coast prints and have a few others scattered around the house too.

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Riders of Slow Coast

It was inspiring to see folks travel in to participate in our little event. Most riders came from within British Columbia, but we had a couple travel up from Seattle, and our friend Sarah came over from Canmore, Alberta, working Slow Coast into a longer solo bikepacking trip on the coast. I can’t say I’ve ever spent a weekend with such a warm and welcoming group of individuals before. I only knew a few before the event, a handful from Instagram, and everyone else arrived as strangers but left as new friends. There’s no better way to get to know someone than by spending a weekend bikepacking together. This holds even more truth when riding slowly.

Going Slow

I’m not opposed to racing. It’s part of what we share here on BIKEPACKING.com, and I acknowledge its transformative power for participants and spectators. Ultra-endurance rides and fastest known times generally get more attention than 90-kilometer overnighters on Texada Island, and that’s okay. However, I think there’s room for improvement. For one, I think bikepacking events (including races, group rides, and overnighters with friends) should put a stronger emphasis on place and land. If you’re paying to race, part of that registration fee should be donated to the organizations and groups protecting the land you’ll recreate on. Thinking that it’s okay to show up, ride your bike, and leave without so much as acknowledging the unique challenges and opportunities in a town or community feels out of touch.

On the other hand, it’s reasonable not to fully understand our role as cyclists. As someone who isn’t comfortable blindly re-sharing Instagram posts to solidify my values, Slow Coast was an opportunity to give back to deserving organizations and introduce a different approach to bikepacking to a group of cyclists. Emily sent out a participant survey a few weeks after the event, and it was interesting, although not totally surprising, to hear that a few people thought the short presentations on Friday evening were too long. We discussed options to shorten the education component of the weekend but then remembered why we were doing this in the first place and how an exercise in patience is probably good for all of us. In a world that revolves around instant gratification, maybe sitting and listening in silence and then reflecting on what was said is precisely what we need more of.

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Emily and I wouldn’t describe ourselves as knowledgeable on any of the topics from the weekend. There is always more to learn and more ways to grow. We are far from experts on reconciliation, old-growth logging, or the endangered status of painted turtles. But we’re trying. We’re hopeful that others will want to try with us.

A special thank-you to the makers who donated prizes to the event, our friends who supported us, and the great local businesses that helped make Slow Coast happen. This includes Randi Jo Fabrications, Safety Donut, Farsik, Field & Forest, 32 Lakes Coffee Roasters, Straight & Narrow, Lauren Everall, Melissa Dow, Natalie Jones, and Sue Glenn.

Slow Coast 2024 Video

Our good friend Tom Powell came over from Vancouver Island to shoot video at Slow Coast. Despite taking a wrong turn and ending up at the infamous Anderson Bay, hanging out with the locals for a few hours, Tom made his way back to us and put together a fantastic video recap of the weekend. We can’t thank Tom enough for perfectly capturing the essence of the weekend. We also want to thank the Texada Arts, Culture & Tourism Society (TACT) for their support. To stay in the loop on our plans for 2025, follow Slow Coast qathet on Instagram.

Further Reading

This is by no means an exhaustive list of resources on the qathet Regional District related to some of the learning we engaged in, but it was a good starting point for us.

• Baby Turtles Released in Turtle Recovery Program
• Coastal Partners in Conservation: The Coastal Painted Turtle Project
• Francis, Abby. (2024, February 10). Tla’amin Nation set to reclaim village of tiskʷat 151 years after it was taken: ‘It’s like a long lost relative’. IndigiNews. https://indiginews.com/features/tlaamin-nation-set-to-reclaim-village-of-tiskwat-151-years-after-it-was-taken
• Hill, Tanya. (2024, January 12). Entanglements, boat strikes a danger to sea life around qathet. Times Colonist. https://www.timescolonist.com/animal-stories/entanglements-boat-strikes-a-danger-to-sea-life-around-qathet-8101525
• Indigenous Youth Mountain Bike Program “Dirt Relations” Documentary
• Israel Wood Powell’s Legacy. Know History Inc. https://www.tlaaminnation.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Israel-Wood-Powell-Legacy.pdf
• Leggett, Alicia. (2024, February 4). Interview: Creators of the ‘Dirt Relations’ Film On Where Trailbuilding Meets Community Development. Pinkbike. https://www.pinkbike.com/news/interview-creators-of-the-dirt-relations-film-on-where-trailbuilding-meets-community-development.html
• Newbury, J., Harvey, R., & Matters, T. N. (2023, July 31). The case for changing Powell River’s name. The Tyee. https://thetyee.ca/Opinion/2023/07/31/Change-Powell-Rivers-Name/
• Tla’amin Nation Website (https://www.tlaaminnation.com/)
• Wild Ocean Whale Society Live Stream Camera of Westview Ferry terminal

Further Reading

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