Hebras de Ixtepeji, Oaxaca

• Best bike: The trails in La Cumbre are challenging enough that a fully rigid plus bike or a front suspension hardtail are about the minimum you’ll want for this ride. A dropper seatpost is very much recommended, though an old-fashioned quick-release works too!
• Best time of year: Oaxaca is a great destination throughout the year. The dry season (October to April) is a good time to ride but be aware that in the later months, it’s sizzling hot in the valley, the roads can be very dusty, and streams run dry. Leave early and carry extra water. In contrast, the rainy season (May to October) brings lush countryside, tacky trails, but the risk of heavy nightly downpours. On the whole, the trails drain well. Mid October through December are probably the best times to ride here, as the landscape is still green, the heaviest rains have passed, and the temperatures aren’t yet oppressive.
• Pack light! A light rig will make a big difference to your enjoyment of these trails. They’re often steep and technical.
• Almost all of this route is rideable, but expect to hop off your bike occasionally, depending on your skill level. Ride conservatively and carefully, as parts of this route are very remote and far removed from emergency services.
• If you want to extend the route beyond the bonus gpx file we’d included, it’s as simple as adding in more trails once you’re up in La Cumbre. Many are listed on Trailforks. For those with the skillset and the bike, there are a number of black-graded enduro trails too. They’re great trails but very intense too.
• There is a small fee (40 pesos) to pass through the Reserva Ecologica La Mesita, which includes access to eco-art installations, and a number of trails. There’s also a butterfly garden, for an additional 40 pesos. Allow time to explore! Camping is possible there too, if you get a late start or want to stop and ride trails.
• Technically, a fee (200 pesos) is also required to ride in Ixtepeji. However, this route doesn’t pass by the ticket booth on the main road where this would normally be paid; if anyone asks for the fee, just request a receipt, so you can show it if need be. 
• If you pack light, riding these trails with minimal bikepacking gear is very do-able and you’ll still have a lot of fun. Otherwise, consider dropping down to the Centro Ecoturístico La Cumbre Ixtepeji and leaving your bags there. It’s a 30-490 minute climb to get back out again to the main trail hub.
• Generally speaking, the mountains of Oaxaca are a safe place to travel through, but it’s always worth seeking up-to-date information.
• Want to get into the botanical groove? Visit the renowned Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca for a plant primer before you set off. There are 2 hour, guided tours in English and Spanish.
• Background reading: Oaxaca Journal by Dr Oliver Sachs, is a highly recommended read for those interested in learning more about the area, from both a botanical and cultural standpoint.
• Nearby trails: A short ride from the centre of Oaxaca, the trail network west of San Felipe Del Agua has a network of cross-country singletrack – see Trailforks for details. The Escalones trail, as an out and back, is especially recommended.
• Enduro scene and bike guides: A number of tour agencies can supply full suspension bikes and guided day rides, like Coyote Adventuras, Trans Sierra Norte, and Bicicletas Pedro Martinez. Coyote and Pedro Martinez offer more mellow tours around the valleys too.
• Bike shops: Bicimundo and Zona Bici are well stocked and both have shops in Reforma, which are recommended over their branches in the city centre. Expect to find sealant, modern drivetrain components, and a reasonable selection of mountain bike tyres, right up to 29 x 2.5/2.6.
• Bike rentals: Aside from the full suspension bikes provided by tour companies for their enduro tours, Bicicletas Pedro Martinez rents decent hardtails for 500 pesos/24 hours. Otherwise, pop by Bicibella Oaxaca, below Coyote tours. They may be able to set you up with something too.
• Resources: MTB Oaxaca is an excellent website that lists bike shops, trails, and day rides in and around Oaxaca. Thank you Larry!
• El Día de Muertos: Consider timing your trip with Oaxaca’s famous festival and ceremony (early November), but book accommodation in advance as things get especially busy at that time of year.
• Buses: Oaxaca is a six-hour bus ride away from Mexico City. ADO is a recommended bus company and generally has room for a bike or two. You may need to remove the front wheel and drop your seat post.
• Flights: Volaris, AeroMexico, and a number of other airlines fly to Oaxaca via Mexico City or Guadalajara. There are some direct flights to LA, too. Airlines invariably have different bike policies – cost/size/weight – so always check ahead. I like to travel with a compact bicycle bag –  like the Tardis from Ground Effect – as it fits into smaller taxis and is easier to store in a hotel or hostel.
• Airport taxis: Depending on the size of your bike boxes, it’s likely to cost between 350 and 500 pesos for a taxi from the airport into town – for 2 to 3 people with bikes.  You can buy tickets for the official airport taxis when you arrive (just by the exit) and it’s all regulated. If you have a small bike bag, you can likely fit it into the collectivo. For your return, download the Didi App on your phone (pay the driver directly), or arrange a shuttle through your hotel.
• Covid-19 tests: tests suitable for air travel to the US are available at Farmacias Ahorro , a national chain of pharmacies.  You’ll need to book in advance (sometimes at least a day) but results are almost immediate. The cost is approximately $25/500 pesos. Find the closest to where you are staying, book online (laptops work better than phones), and don’t forget to bring ID. There are other more immediate (but expensive) clinics in town too, that may well be better suited to larger groups. Your accommodation will also be able to advise.
• Mask wearing: Be sure to wear your mask both indoors and outdoors in Oaxaca city, as per the state mandate. Expect to have your temperature checked and to be required to clean your hands with sanitiser when entering certain establishments and markets. Be especially sensitive to Covid-19 restrictions and requirements in smaller communities. Be sure to check in on Mexico’s Covid-19 Epidemiological Traffic Light Map before embarking on this tour.

• There is an eco-touristic centre – see map for its location. Centro Ecoturístico La Cumbre Ixtepeji has food, water, and lodging on offer. Private cabanas are available for approx 250 pesos or person (minimum 3), or there are 4 bed dorm rooms (with private bathrooms) for 200 pesos, and camping for 100 pesos per person. You can also pay your camping fee, and then head back into the forest to camp where you like. The centre can be reached via one of the one-way mtb trails. To return from whence you came, it’s a half hour climb back up to the main ‘trail hub’. The phone number is 951 560 4039 if you want to book a cabana in advance, which is recommended at the weekends.
• If you get a late start, you can camp at La Mesita Ecoturismo San Pablo Etla for 100 pesos per person. This gives you access to the local trail network, too, and the outdoor art centre.
• Currently, the cabanas owned by the San Pablo Etla community are being renovated. When finished, consider using them for your first night, but note that there’s no restaurant, so you’ll need to bring food and/or a means to cook it. The number for La Mesita Ecoturismo San Pablo Etla is 951 114 40 67, through which the cabanas can be booked. This has the potential to turn this route into a hut-to-hut, singletrack laden adventure.
• Discreet, responsible, dispersed camping can enjoyed throughout Ixtepeji. If you find yourself near a community, be sure to check in and ask permission to camp. There are plenty of flat spots in the Ixtepeji area, but fewer on the way up or down. No fires are allowed.
• There’s a wide variety of accommodation available within Oaxaca City, from budget hostels to fancy digs. If you plan on setting up a base camp to explore the area in more detail, Airbnb can be a good option. Location-wise, it’s hard to go wrong anywhere near the centre of the city but the area around Xochimilco is especially appealing. It’s the oldest part of Oaxaca and is artistic, colourful, and crammed with coffee shops.

• There are several spots to refill water bottles along the way, the most reliable are marked on the map. Bring a filter.
• En route up the climb, there is also a water spigot at Reserva Ecologica La Mesita.
• In the dry season, it’s a good idea to have the capacity for 3+ litres of water on your bike; there is less water to be found on the south-east-facing La Cumbre side, so fill up whenever you see it. The last reliable spot is around 32km into the route.
• The Centro Ecoturístico La Cumbre Ixtepeji has clean water to fill up your bottles and good, economical food too (9.30am to 5.30pm), though hours during the week can be sporadic, so it’s best to pack extra reserves too.
• On your way out, the last place to find food is in La Viguera before the big climb into the high country.
• Various paleterias and spots to enjoy tepache and other local drinks are marked on the map, for the cruise back into Oaxaca.
• Alternatively, if you’re returning on a Saturday or Sunday, treat yourself to a fantastic meal at Agua Miel, in San Pablo Etla. You’ll need to book in advance. It’s a little further down the valley from San José el Mogote archeological site, which is also well worth checking out.
• For lots of food and drink recommendations in the city, see this link!

Want to ride a couple more flowy trails in La Cumbre Ixtepeji?

The Ixtepji Mini Wiggle offers an intro into some of the more flowy, mellower trails in the network.

Spending the night in the Centro ecoturístico La Cumbre Ixtepeji?

This Ixtepeji Sunrise Ride is short and sweet.  It includes a great spot to enjoy the sunrise across the Sierra Juarez, and a small trail loop that’s best enjoyed unladen. It takes around 1.30hr riding time but you’ll want to linger at the lookout, for sure!

Spending longer in Oaxaca?

Check out the six-day San José del Pacífico Grand Dirt Tour, a loop out of Oaxaca. Or catch a bus over to Cuicatlán, and ride the three day Ojos de Cuitalan tour, in the Tehuacán-Cuicatlán Biosphere Reserve. If you want to visit the Pacific coast, check out the Oaxaca to Puerto Escondido route.

Looking for day rides to further explore the area? 

The Monte Albán and Cuilapan Rural Ramble is a challenging rough stuff day ride that passes by the Zapotec ruins of Monte Albán en route to the Ex-Monastery of Cuilapan, set in Oaxaca’s Valle Grande and Ejutla area. You can trim it down a smaller loop, but I recommend the full figure of eight route, as the extension provides a wonderful showcase for Oaxaca’s traditional farming practises and inter-cropping – a combination of corn, squash, and beans to help fortify the soil and keep pests away.

If you’re interested in bringing back a textile from your trip and would like to buy it directly from the makers, the 75km Teotitlán, via Huilapam, Dainzú, and Tule is sure to add great memories to your purchase. It links up mellow trails, rural roads, and desert two-track. Find out more about traditional Oaxaca textiles and how they’re made here.

With thanks to Larry at www.oaxacamtb.com sharing his vast knowledge of the area and its dirt roads.

Additional Resources

• You can see more images from the same area in this post – the backdrop to our foraging guide.